Cozy Burda Top and Jalie Éléonores

Here's an easy top that I whipped up recently as shown on my daughter, Mehetabel.  This is Burda 6846 which is now out-of-print.  How did I happen upon this pattern?  Well, I've been cataloguing my embarrassingly vast pattern collection!

I made a spreadsheet on Google Docs with categories for brand, pattern number, type, size, and a photo of the pattern.  I made the categories fairly broad on purpose.  It's been a long process, but I'm finally at the end--until I buy more patterns!  That's the blessing/curse of Joann's pattern sales. At least now I have an easy way to peruse the patterns I have on hand.

When I got to my smallish Burda stash, I set this pattern aside because it looked like a perfect winter top.

I had a little difficulty choosing which pattern size to use.  I wanted a slouchy top with plenty of ease, but I didn't want it to be so large it looked like a hand-me-down.  I measured and compared the pattern pieces, and I think it turned out fine.  It will also work well when I make it up in bulkier sweater knits.

The only changes I made were to lengthen the sleeves and hem by about an inch.

I also changed the order of sewing because I like to sew sleeves in flat.  Why not?!

The fabric I used is--I think--a double brushed poly.  I don't know the content because it wasn't labeled and I'm too lazy to do a burn test.  But it did well when I washed it and that's what matters to me.  I purchased this fabric at the oddly named Out of My MinDesigns in Carson City, Nevada, for $6.95/yard.  It was my first time visiting the store (I'm still new to Nevada); they seem to have mostly quilting stuff, but I found a small area with apparel fabrics.

I dithered (it's what I do--everyone needs a special talent) over which fabric to use for the initial version of this pattern.  I finally chose this DBP because it wouldn't be the end of the world if the top didn't turn out.

Construction was very easy, and this project came together quickly.  I used my sewing machine with a stretch stitch, trimmed all seam allowances with the serger, and hemmed the sleeves and top with the cover stitch.  

Mehetabel is wearing the top with a pair of Jalie Éléonore jeans made out of navy heavy weight stretch twill purchased from Michael Levine.  This fabric is great!  I've used several different colorways of it for Éléonores.  It has heft and a good amount of stretch.  I still have some in my stash, but I wish I'd bought more as they only have a couple colors left.  I've linked it here.

These navy Éléonores have been real workhorses in Mehetabel's wardrobe.  They fit her very well, they're a bit dressier than denim jeans, and the color works with so many of her tops.  Here, she's paired them with her navy suede booties which I think creates a long, elegant line.  I've blogged about the Jalie Éléonores here.  Just like the others I've made, I used my cover stitch machine to do all the topstitching on the pants.

I'm putting this top in the win column along with the Éléonores.  I'm not sure what I'll make next. Possibly the ubiquitous Blackwood cardigan or maybe another one of these Burda tops.  I also want to work on some slacks for Mehetabel and a jacket.  We'll see!

In the meantime, thank you for reading my blog, and I hope you enjoy the holiday season!

New Look 6301 in Minty/Aqua ITY Knit

I've made New Look 6301 quite a few times, but this is the first time I paired the 3/4 length sleeves with the straight skirt.  That's not earth-shattering, I know!  

This is another dress that I've made for my daughter, Mehetabel.  Previously, I've made her two straight skirted versions with sleeveless bodices (blogged here and here) as well as one with a flared skirt and 3/4 length sleeves (blogged here).

I've also made sleeveless, straight skirted versions for Mehetabel's bridesmaids as a possible option (although we went with a more formal look for the wedding) and another for the wedding officiant.

For this version, I lined the skirt as I did the cobalt and lime version, but I didn't line the bodice. (Why?!  I don't know!)  I also lengthened the skirt a couple inches to Mehetabel's preferred straight skirt length.  Shorter looks great when she's standing, but she's uncomfortable when sitting as the skirt rides up.

On an earlier version, I tried using the right front bodice piece for both sides with limited success. This time, I went back to the original pattern pieces.  I like this pattern, but the neckline can be a bit revealing.

The fabric is an ITY that I liked so much I purchased it twice: first from Gorgeous Fabrics and then I saw it for half (HALF!) the price at Spandex House.  Right now, it is available at Fabrics World USA for $7/yard.  I made a cardigan and top for me from the other yardage.

I love, love, love, florals, but I also like variety, so when I see a non-floral print in a fabrication I like, I snap it up.  This fabric is one of those purchases.  I love the colors, and while it may be a bit more appropriate for spring, our (almost) fall temperatures are still quite toasty.

Like the other versions, I added ten inches to the length of the belt.  I added elastic to the waist seam allowance.  All seams were sewn on my regular machine, with the seam allowances trimmed and finished on the serger.  The sleeves were hemmed on my coverstitch machine.

I think I will retire this pattern--at least for a little while.  I'm going to give McCall's 6884 a go.  I'm a sucker for a surplice neckline and a mock wrap skirt.

(Yet Another) McCall's 6886: Raspberry Paisley Mesh

I know, I know.  You've seen this one before--the pattern, that is!  But it's such a versatile (and easy!) pattern that I just had to document this raspberry version on my blog.

This is another McCall's 6886, with a jewel neck, 3/4 length sleeves, and a slightly looser cut through the body (as requested). 

The fabric is a yummy raspberry/red/orchid mesh which I purchased in the NYC garment district years ago.  

The dress is underlined in a beige mystery knit.  And, as I am wont to do, I created facings--interfaced and finished on the serger--to complete the neckline.  The pattern calls for turning under 5/8" and stitching.  I think this finish looks better.  Also, the facings were hand-sewn to the underlining.

Here's a close-up of the fabric

All seams were constructed on my sewing machine and the seam allowances were trimmed and finished on my serger.  

 The hems were done on the coverstitch machine. 

At Mehetabel's request, I added a little ease to the body of the dress.  She doesn't wear body-con at work.

I love the color and print of this fabric, but I have to admit that mesh is not my favorite fabrication.  I bought this fabric solely for the print.  I'd like to find it in a jersey.

(Mostly) McCall's 7561 in Green Paisley ITY Knit

Things have been hopping on the Bespokeability factory floor.  I can't seem to stop making McCall's 6886s--it's such a versatile pattern.  But, that's not what I'm going to show you today.  This dress, McCall's 7561, was finished some time ago, but I wanted to document it on the blog.  I should mention that the dress was made for my daughter, Mehetabel.

I just love this fabric!  It's an ITY knit from Spandex House in New York's garment district, purchased a few years ago.

Contrary to the directions, I chose to underline the bodice.  I used a beige swimsuit lining.  For the neckline, I created a facing which I interfaced with a knit fusible from Fashion Sewing Supply and finished on the serger.  The facing was hand sewn to the underlining.

I shortened the long sleeves to 3/4 length and hemmed them on my coverstitch machine.

 The shoulders were stabilized with stay tape.

The pattern calls for a gathered skirt.  I chose to make a flared A-line instead.  For that, I used the skirt pattern from New Look 6301 and added ten inches to the length.  The skirt was hemmed on my coverstitch machine.

I wish I'd taken a video to show the movement of the skirt.  It's just lovely.

It's hard to see here, but I added a sewn-in sash.  The sash pieces are sewn to the side seams and are long enough to wrap around her waist three times.

This dress will transition nicely for autumn.  Add boots and a cardigan and Mehetabel will be ready for cooler temperatures!

McCall's 6886: Ready for Summer

I've had this pretty floral knit in my stash for several years, and, as I often do, I vacillated about what to make with it.  Then one day, I remembered a dress I'd made for Mehetabel a couple years ago: McCall's 6886 (blogged here).  I had lined that version and it worked out well.  Why not make a summer version?

I lined the dress using the same method I used in the earlier version (linked above).  This time, I used a white knit lining--I have no memory of its content or origin.

I think of this one as the "mod" floral.  It's a happy print, isn't it?  The fabric is from Girl Charlee, but purchased a couple years ago.

I have plans to make a coral eyelet knit cardigan.  I think it'll look great with this dress.  It's always nice to have a wrap in air conditioned rooms. 

As I did before, I finished the neckline with a facing interfaced with fusible lightweight knit from Fashion Sewing Supply.

The lining was cut an inch shorter than the fashion fabric.

This was another easy item to make, although the lining and facing process did make it slightly more complicated.  Nevertheless, I'm pleased with the outcome, and I believe Mehetabel will get a lot of use out of this dress.

Vogue 9311: Take Two with Modifications

I recently made Vogue 9311 for my daughter, Mehetabel, blogged here.  (That's not her real name. I'm just trying to preserve some of her privacy while posting multiple photos of her on the internet! Heh.)  Anyway, I decided to make the pattern again, and I planned to make several changes, but it turned out to be only one change in addition to the ones I'd made to the previous version.

Design Assistant Björn is more interested in the covey of quail on the front lawn

First, I made a couple muslins to see if I could cut off the extended shoulders and raise the neckline.  I couldn't make the change to the sleeve cap successfully without taking away the excess ease needed to keep the dress a pullover, so the sleeve cap remained as drafted.  And, even though the raised neckline looked good, I decided to leave it as is.  

But, since Mehetabel would like to wear a bra with these dresses, I added a small modesty panel to each version.

I dithered (my middle name might be "Dither") over what fabric to use, but finally settled on this poly/cotton blend from Mood.  I originally purchased this fabric several years ago as a potential choice for Mehetabel's bridesmaids' dresses, because I thought it might work well with her pink wedding dress (pictured on the sidebar to the right).  Ultimately, we went with an ivory crepe, so this floral remained in my stash.

The fabric is double-sided, but both Mehetabel and I didn't care for the reverse side.  I think the fabric is pretty, but the quality of the weave is subpar, and it is also quite delicate.  I had to work around some blemishes, the fabric skittered about, and it had a tendency to unravel.  

I underlined the skirt with pale pink batiste, and used the batiste to line the bodice.  The flounce is just the fashion fabric with a narrow hem.  The modesty panel on this dress is made from the fashion fabric with an overlay of point d'esprit lace from my wedding dress.  I lined the panel with batiste and hand sewed it to the bodice.

Here's the point d'esprit in question.  Hello 80s!

The dress went together without a hitch--well, except for the skittery fabric.  Like the previous version, the most challenging part was pinning on the flounce.  But, as I said about the earlier dress, that wasn't difficult, just tedious. 

And the verdict?  She likes it.  Huzzah!

Now Mehetabel and her husband are on their way to a rustic wedding ("classy casual" dress code) for one of her college buddies.  And, she has a new dress to wear!