Summer to Fall Transition: A Faux Jumpsuit

My daughter will be back in the classroom in a week or so. And around here, the temperature is hovering around 100 degrees Farenheit (37.78 Celsius), so while she wants to look polished and professional, she also wants to be comfortable. She's told me that her classrooms vary from freezing cold--too much air conditioning, to too hot--not enough air conditioning. So, I thought a few summer-weight pieces would be good for the beginning of the semester. The high heat could last well into October, or it could get pretty cool and blustery. Who knows!?

I knew my daughter liked the look of the Lane Pants by Sydney Graham and I was dying to give them a try. Going by my daughter's measurements, I first printed a size 8, but they looked way too big. I then printed the size 6, and while they fit her fine and have plenty of room, I could go down to a size 4. I added some inches in length and was going to make a fit muslin, but I decided to just go for it in some not-precious-to-me rayon challis lawn that I had gotten in a Sew Hayley Jane subscription box (sometime within the last couple years)--I think it's a Lady McElroy fabric, if memory serves.

For this first pair of Lane Pants, I put buttonholes in the waistband which uses both elastic and an optional drawstring. I used a ready-made drawstring which I cut in half and added a section of elastic--I did this because the drawstring would've been too short otherwise. I also omitted all the pocket options, because as I was cutting out the pants, I thought I might have enough to make a matching top if I kept the yardage that would've gone into the pockets.

So, other than a couple changes, those sewed up quickly and easily. I sewed everything on my sewing machine and finished all seams on my serger. The pants call for a 3" hem--which I did--and I topstiched them on my machine.

During a recent sale, I had purchased the Helen's Closet Ashton Top. This is a sleeveless top that can be finished with either bias tape or facings, a potential hem facing, and a choice of cup sizes. An expansion pack with a variety of sleeves can also be purchased. I did. 

I cut out the top with the facings and the hem facing (size 12 with a B-cup, no modifications). I was just able to get everything out of the challis remants, although I did piece the back facing and I cut it on the cross-grain. 

Super easy sew, no closures. I chose to use the facings, because I am a facings gal, and I used the burrito-method to install them. I've used this method multiple times, but if you've never used it, the instructions for the Ashton Top include clear directions for the burrito-method, and I highly recommend it.

This fabric was a little skittery to sew, but it created a great outfit. Soooooo comfy! And, being rayon, it'll work well in our very hot and arid climate. 

But since my daughter's university classrooms are unpredictable when it comes to air conditioning, I thought a completer piece was in order--which would also take this outfit into more autumnal weather. I was going to make her a cardigan in dusty pink, but then I held up a remnant of teal jersey to the top and it matched the teal flowers perfectly! A couple years ago, I had made my daughter the Helen's Closet Blackwood Cardigan out of this textured teal jersey that I had gotten in a Think Pink Box from Beyond the Pink Door. I think it is perfect with this outfit and eliminates my daughter's air conditioning concerns!

I've also been making clothes for my grandchildren, including Pete the Cat t-shirts, dinosaur t-shirts, Baby Shark t-shirts, and dresses for my granddaughter. It is so fun and satisfying to make things that are so appreciated!

Next up? I'm working on a tunic, Simplicity 1461, out of a cotton batik, and I also have more shirts and dresses cut out for my grandchildren. And I have a few ideas of back-to-work outfits for my daughter. I think I'll keep busy!

I hope you are doing well and finding time to create!

Happy sewing ~ Peggy

Butterick 5362 (from 1998) in Navy Floral

I've had Butterick 5362 for ages, but I had never used until this project. The pattern is from 1998, and it seems readily available on Etsy, Amazon, and eBay.

My daughter, the not-her-real-name Mehetabel, is nursing her baby (my grandson! 💖), and I am determined to make her some usable (and hopefully cute) clothing. Yes, things that button up the front are great choices, but I got to thinking that a dress that zips in front would be easy to use. That's where Butterick 5362 entered the picture. I was perusing my pattern stash and couldn't find exactly what I wanted, so when I saw this pattern I thought it would do.

The pattern is for a pullover dress without closures. Instead of cutting the front bodice on the fold, I added 5/8" seam allowance so that I could add a zipper. I knew that just putting a zipper in the bodice wouldn't be enough, so I also added a center front seam and seam allowance to the skirt.

I used a 22" invisible zipper down the front, and I'm happy to say it works well!

I decided not to use the included skirt pattern because I thought Mehetabel might prefer something looser in our 100 degree heat. The skirt is made up of two rectangles the width of the fabric--one width in back and one width (split down the center) in front. I then added a 12" (plus seam allowance and hem) tier to the dress--this was made with 3 widths. 

The bodice is self-lined. I used my usual trick of trimming the lining about 1/8" smaller at the neckline and armscyes. I used the burrito method to enclose the armscyes.

Ties were added at the bodice to help draw the dress in.

I, probably foolishly, hemmed the bottom tier by hand--because I felt like it and I like to keep my hands busy while watching TV. But after I'd hemmed about a third of it, I was questioning my sanity! Oh well. It looks nice!

The fabric is something I've had in my stash for ages. It was designed by Joan Kessler for Concord Fabrics. I don't know exactly when it is from, but I'd guess the late 80s/early 90s. It's cotton broadcloth, and washes and dries like a dream. I thought the fabric would work well for a hot weather dress.

Now that I've worked out the kinks on this pattern, I might make it again--I'm thinking a double gauze would be nice. I also just made a muslin of Jalie 2787--the Criss-Cross Top. I'd like to make one for myself, and I'd also like to make some for Mehetabel because the top is nursing-friendly. I also want to make some shorts and I'm thinking of trying the Closet Core Pietras.

I hope all is well with you and that you are sewing up a storm! ~ Peggy

Butterick 6085 in Robert Kaufman Floral Cotton Lawn

Hello, hello! I'm back (!) with a top for my daughter, Mehetabel. She is the mother of a 3-month old boy--my first grandchild!--and she is in need of suitable/comfortable clothes for breastfeeding. I've raided my own closet for button-up tops for her to borrow, but I thought I'd make something for her. I remember feeling a bit dowdy and uninspired in my clothing choices back when I was in her position, so I thought an accessible top in a pretty fabric might do the trick. Plus, it's starting to get pretty hot here in the high desert, so why not something sleeveless and cool?

First, I tried the Melody Dolman from Love Notions. I just have to do the buttons and buttonholes on that one. I also tried a pattern from my stash: Butterick 6085. This pattern is now out of print--it was published in 2001--but it was in the catalog for many years. It's a classic button up top with a camp-style collar and various options. To see if this would work for Mehetabel, I made up a sleeveless version with darts at the bust. It is a little large, but I wanted to accommodate the pumping paraphernalia. 

The fabric is a Robert Kaufman cotton lawn in a pretty blues/teals/turquoise floral print, purchased from Fabric.com.  I didn't have any coordinating buttons in my stash, so I picked up some white ones at a local store.

I should've straightened the top before I snapped the photo!

The instructions have you clip into the seam allowance on the middle of the collar facing to enclose the neck seam. I've had success with this method multiple times, but I thought I'd try something else. I made a facing piece for the back neckline. I had limited success with this. I interfaced the facing (probably a mistake) and I had difficulty getting the facing to lay flat--but it's good enough.  I think I'll go back to the original method.

The only other change I made was to add three inches in length.

The interfacing I used for the facings and collar is pretty crisp; if I had had something lighter on hand, that's what I would've preferred. 

I thought I'd try using my sewing machine to sew on the buttons as I'd never done that before. I successfully did one, but it was too difficult to continue. I wound up buying a foot specifically for attaching buttons, but by that time, I'd hand-sewn the buttons on the top.

This is a casual top that'll work well with a pair of shorts or jeans. I'll see if she likes this size, or if she feels it is too roomy.

The armsyces were finished with store-bought bias tape. I was planning to make some from the fabric, but since I had a coordinating color on hand, I went with it!

Right now, I'm working on a dress for my daughter using another out-of-print pattern. I've created a center-front seam and am inserting an invisible zip down the front. I'm hoping this will be breast-feeding friendly. We'll see! It might be about time to sew an old favorite which won't be so much of a question mark!

Anywho, that's all for me. I hope you are well and sewing up a storm! ~ Peggy

A Pants Hack

Hello there! A recent post was about some life changes and my upcoming sewing plans. Well, speaking of life changes(!), as you might know, I've had to scrap the plans for my daughter's back-to-the-classroom wardrobe! Why? Well, for one of the best reasons possible. She and her husband are expecting their first child! I'm going to be a grandmother--and I'm still wrapping my head around that.

I am so happy for them. They will be wonderful parents and I want to do what I can to support them. I'm thinking babysitting, meal prep, hugs, whatever--but particularly sewing! Now, as you may know, Mehetabel (my not-her-real-name daughter) is 6 feet tall, and regular patterns always need to be adjusted. Throw pregnancy into the mix, and that adds another challenge. A challenge, yes, but not insurmountable! 

When they first talked about trying to get pregnant, I looked around for maternity patterns. There was nothing in the big four books! I found some current, independent patterns, and made some purchases. I also looked at eBay, Etsy, etc., to look for out-of-print and/or vintage-ish patterns, and made some more purchases. I didn't know what time of year all this would hopefully happen, but now I do: mostly winter. 

I should also mention that I still have many of the patterns I used when I was pregnant in the early-80s. I doubt Mehetabel would want any of those--including Nolan Miller's Linda Evans/Dynasty maternity patterns. I was also pregnant in a much warmer climate and primarily during the spring and summer, so our clothing needs were and are completely different.

On YouTube, several people have videos about how to hack RTW jeans for pregnancy. What a brilliant idea! I immediately bought a pair of Levi's on sale in Mehetabel's size--I could not find any RTW maternity jeans online that would be long enough, so this hack seemed like the answer.  Instead of winging it, I decided to use the stomach panel pattern pieces from a recently purchased older pattern: Butterick 5964. The rather cryptic information on the back of the pattern said to purchase fabric with 15% lycra/spandex for the stomach panel which wasn't easy to find. I did find some--only in gray--at Surge Fabrics online. I quickly bought some and awaited my package.

I was nervous about cutting into the jeans, but nothing ventured, nothing gained. I used the pattern pieces to trace out the area to be removed, and used the stomach panel pieces to cut out the 15% spandex tummy piece. 

Sewing was a breeze. I sewed the panel piece on my regular machine using a stretch stitch, and finished the seams with the serger. I considered doubling the fabric as shown in one of the videos, but I was worried that that would make the garment too hot. So, using the pattern's instructions, I finished off the top of the panel but with my coverstitch rather than the regular stitch of the instructions. By the way, the panel fabric has 50 UPF protection, so her stomach won't get burned!

This was a super quick and easy project. The jeans fit Mehetabel well, and she's pleased with them. Although, if I make them again, I will probably start the tummy panel a little higher up and leave a little more of the front fly. Who knows if these jeans fit her throughout the pregnancy, but we'll find out!

Next up, I'm either going to make some gray jeans for me, or pants--or--a top--for Mehetabel. Definitely on the list: more maternity clothes. Who knows what I'll make?!

Thank you for your kind comments following my recent news. I am recovering very well and am looking forward to new challenges.

Until next time ~ Grammy Peggy

A New Top for Carmelita

Hello there! I hope you are staying well. I'm on a mini-roll right now, sewing-wise. After the Work from Home Module Sew Along, I dithered about what to do next. I often dither. I annoy myself with my dithering. I knew, though, that I wanted to make a top for my daughter's mother-in-law, Carmelita. Carmelita had recently purchased some pants and a coordinating top from J.Jill; the pants fit well but she hated the top. Going into the store to look for something else was not in the cards (thank you, pandemic), so I offered to make her a top if we could find coordinating fabric.

We were in luck. On the Girl Charlee website, I found two cotton/lycra possibilities. We decided to order both fabrics hoping at least one would work, but both fabrics looked great with the pants. At a later date, I'll make her a top for cooler weather with the other, slightly darker, fabric.

We were both visiting our kids, Mehetabel and Aloysius, and I asked Mehetabel if Carmelita could try on a top (unblogged) that I'd made her. I wanted to check the fit on Carmelita. The top is the Love Notions Classic Tee, two of which are blogged here and here. The one she tried on had 3/4 sleeves and a V-neck. The shirt fit well along the shoulders, neck,  and arms, but was a bit too snug on the torso.

So, I re-printed the top, choosing the Medium and Large layers. After taping the PDF (you know how I love doing that), I cut the top on the Medium lines for the sleeves, shoulders, and neckline; and I cut the bodice on the Large cutting lines. It's not that big a difference, but it gives her a little more room in that region.

The top went together without a hitch. I reinforced the shoulders with fusible interfacing. The seams were sewn with a stretch stitch. The seam allowances were trimmed with the serger, and the hems and neckline were finished with the coverstitch.

She likes the top and I think she looks great! Huzzah!

And now, a parting shot. CJ,  the assistant to my design assistant, is clearly being overworked:

The Work from Home Module Sew Along: Helen's Closet Blackwood Cardigan

As you probably know, I'm working on a work from home module for my daughter, Mehetabel. The idea springs from a challenge that Whitney, of Tomkat Stitchery (on Instagram @tomkatstitcherycarmel), is hosting: making/thrifting/buying three tops, 2 coordinating bottoms, and 1 coordinating topper to make a lot of different outfits--specifically for working from home. I have made three knit tops with navy in them, blogged here, here, and here, and today I'm showing you my latest Helen's Closet Blackwood Cardigan also in navy.

I have made the Blackwood Cardigan twice before, here and here, and I'm sure I'll make it more times as well. It's slouchy and stylish, and also very easy to construct. What's not to love? So when it came time to figure out what topper to make for this module, I thought this cardigan would be perfect.

Construction was done on my sewing machine using a stretch stitch; I trimmed all seams on my serger which made for a nice, neat finish. The shoulders were reinforced with fusible interfacing.

I bought the navy sweater knit a year ago from Fabric.com. It is Telio Cara Polyester, and it is soft and cozy--perfect for working from home--but it'll also work well once we can go out again. 2 yards is more than enough for me to make this cardigan, but I think I might have been shorted this time because I had to get very creative to fit all the pattern pieces on my piece of fabric.

In these photos, Mehetabel is wearing the sweater with a New Look 6150 shell made in double knit, blogged here. Her jeans are Levi's, although she's already told me she'll be wearing Lululemon yoga pants (and slippers) when working from home! This cardigan, in particular, will be a very versatile piece in her wardrobe.

Well, that's about it! Tomorrow or the next day, I'll show all the pieces together,

Take care and happy sewing!

The Work from Home Module Sew Along: Love Notions Classic Tee

I'm back! This time, I want to show you the final top for my daughter's work from home module (#wfhmodulesewalong). For this top, I chose the Love Notions Classic Tee as I've made it several times before and my daughter, Mehetabel, likes the top.

For this module, I wanted 3 distinct necklines for the tops. The first one, blogged here, is a turtleneck, the second one, blogged here, is a scarf-collar, and this one is a crewneck. I think this crewneck tee might be too casual for an in-person classroom, but it'll be fine via Zoom. She's wearing it here with Jalie Eleonore's in navy stretch cotton twill. I made these pants about four years ago and they have gotten a lot of wear. These pants, along with the Levi's she wore with the other two tops, make up the "bottoms" portion of her work from home module.

My first Love Notions Classic Tee can be found here. This one is the same except I added long sleeves. The fabric is from Stylemaker Fabrics and it is a cotton/lycra jersey. I love this shade of coral. It has a bit of heft to it, but that's okay since colder temperatures are on the way.

There weren't any issues sewing this top. As always, I stabilized the shoulders, this time with twill tape. I used my Pfaff's stretch stitch on all seams, serged all seam allowances, and coverstitched the hems and around the collar.

This top has a boxy bodice--perfect for those times when you don't want a skin tight layer next to your stomach! It should be a very comfortable top to wear while working.

Next up, the topper: Helen's Closet Blackwood Cardigan. Ta ta for now!