Saturday, December 22, 2018

Burda 6846 in Sweater Knit

Fresh on the heels of the double brushed jersey top, blogged here, I made another version in a sweater knit from Michael Levine which I purchased for $4.80 per yard.

This is a loose-weave knit in shades of salmon/coral and ivory in cotton/poly/rayon/spandex.  I wanted to see how Burda 6846 sewed up in a sweater knit and it turned out very well.  
In my typical fashion, I used a stretch stitch on the sewing machine for all seams and trimmed/finished the seams with the serger.  The hems were done on the coverstitch.

I considered adding clear elastic to support the raglan seams, but I was worried it might be uncomfortable and/or affect the fit under the arms. We'll see how well the sweater holds up over time.  
 Mehetabel is wearing Jalie Eleonores in navy heavy weight stretch twill, also from Michael Levine.

My daughter, Mehetabel, loves it.  Huzzah!

I don't have much more to say about this pattern.  It's quick and easy. The pieces fit together perfectly and I was able to eke it out of two and half yards.

I'll probably make at least one more version of this top, and I might make the skirt too.

Friday, December 21, 2018

Cozy Burda Top and Jalie Éléonores

Here's an easy top that I whipped up recently as shown on my daughter, Mehetabel.  This is Burda 6846 which is now out-of-print.  How did I happen upon this pattern?  Well, I've been cataloguing my embarrassingly vast pattern collection!

I made a spreadsheet on Google Docs with categories for brand, pattern number, type, size, and a photo of the pattern.  I made the categories fairly broad on purpose.  It's been a long process, but I'm finally at the end--until I buy more patterns!  That's the blessing/curse of Joann's pattern sales. At least now I have an easy way to peruse the patterns I have on hand.

When I got to my smallish Burda stash, I set this pattern aside because it looked like a perfect winter top.

I had a little difficulty choosing which pattern size to use.  I wanted a slouchy top with plenty of ease, but I didn't want it to be so large it looked like a hand-me-down.  I measured and compared the pattern pieces, and I think it turned out fine.  It will also work well when I make it up in bulkier sweater knits.

The only changes I made were to lengthen the sleeves and hem by about an inch.

I also changed the order of sewing because I like to sew sleeves in flat.  Why not?!

The fabric I used is--I think--a double brushed poly.  I don't know the content because it wasn't labeled and I'm too lazy to do a burn test.  But it did well when I washed it and that's what matters to me.  I purchased this fabric at the oddly named Out of My MinDesigns in Carson City, Nevada, for $6.95/yard.  It was my first time visiting the store (I'm still new to Nevada); they seem to have mostly quilting stuff, but I found a small area with apparel fabrics.

I dithered (it's what I do--everyone needs a special talent) over which fabric to use for the initial version of this pattern.  I finally chose this DBP because it wouldn't be the end of the world if the top didn't turn out.

Construction was very easy, and this project came together quickly.  I used my sewing machine with a stretch stitch, trimmed all seam allowances with the serger, and hemmed the sleeves and top with the cover stitch.  

Mehetabel is wearing the top with a pair of Jalie Éléonore jeans made out of navy heavy weight stretch twill purchased from Michael Levine.  This fabric is great!  I've used several different colorways of it for Éléonores.  It has heft and a good amount of stretch.  I still have some in my stash, but I wish I'd bought more as they only have a couple colors left.  I've linked it here.

These navy Éléonores have been real workhorses in Mehetabel's wardrobe.  They fit her very well, they're a bit dressier than denim jeans, and the color works with so many of her tops.  Here, she's paired them with her navy suede booties which I think creates a long, elegant line.  I've blogged about the Jalie Éléonores here.  Just like the others I've made, I used my cover stitch machine to do all the topstitching on the pants.

I'm putting this top in the win column along with the Éléonores.  I'm not sure what I'll make next. Possibly the ubiquitous Blackwood cardigan or maybe another one of these Burda tops.  I also want to work on some slacks for Mehetabel and a jacket.  We'll see!

In the meantime, thank you for reading my blog, and I hope you enjoy the holiday season!

Tuesday, September 18, 2018

New Look 6301 in Minty/Aqua ITY Knit

I've made New Look 6301 quite a few times, but this is the first time I paired the 3/4 length sleeves with the straight skirt.  That's not earth-shattering, I know!  

This is another dress that I've made for my daughter, Mehetabel.  Previously, I've made her two straight skirted versions with sleeveless bodices (blogged here and here) as well as one with a flared skirt and 3/4 length sleeves (blogged here).

I've also made sleeveless, straight skirted versions for Mehetabel's bridesmaids as a possible option (although we went with a more formal look for the wedding) and another for the wedding officiant.

For this version, I lined the skirt as I did the cobalt and lime version, but I didn't line the bodice. (Why?!  I don't know!)  I also lengthened the skirt a couple inches to Mehetabel's preferred straight skirt length.  Shorter looks great when she's standing, but she's uncomfortable when sitting as the skirt rides up.

On an earlier version, I tried using the right front bodice piece for both sides with limited success. This time, I went back to the original pattern pieces.  I like this pattern, but the neckline can be a bit revealing.

The fabric is an ITY that I liked so much I purchased it twice: first from Gorgeous Fabrics and then I saw it for half (HALF!) the price at Spandex House.  Right now, it is available at Fabrics World USA for $7/yard.  I made a cardigan and top for me from the other yardage.

I love, love, love, florals, but I also like variety, so when I see a non-floral print in a fabrication I like, I snap it up.  This fabric is one of those purchases.  I love the colors, and while it may be a bit more appropriate for spring, our (almost) fall temperatures are still quite toasty.

Like the other versions, I added ten inches to the length of the belt.  I added elastic to the waist seam allowance.  All seams were sewn on my regular machine, with the seam allowances trimmed and finished on the serger.  The sleeves were hemmed on my coverstitch machine.

I think I will retire this pattern--at least for a little while.  I'm going to give McCall's 6884 a go.  I'm a sucker for a surplice neckline and a mock wrap skirt.

Monday, September 10, 2018

(Yet Another) McCall's 6886: Raspberry Paisley Mesh

I know, I know.  You've seen this one before--the pattern, that is!  But it's such a versatile (and easy!) pattern that I just had to document this raspberry version on my blog.

This is another McCall's 6886, with a jewel neck, 3/4 length sleeves, and a slightly looser cut through the body (as requested). 

The fabric is a yummy raspberry/red/orchid mesh which I purchased in the NYC garment district years ago.  

The dress is underlined in a beige mystery knit.  And, as I am wont to do, I created facings--interfaced and finished on the serger--to complete the neckline.  The pattern calls for turning under 5/8" and stitching.  I think this finish looks better.  Also, the facings were hand-sewn to the underlining.

Here's a close-up of the fabric

All seams were constructed on my sewing machine and the seam allowances were trimmed and finished on my serger.  
 The hems were done on the coverstitch machine. 
At Mehetabel's request, I added a little ease to the body of the dress.  She doesn't wear body-con at work.
I love the color and print of this fabric, but I have to admit that mesh is not my favorite fabrication.  I bought this fabric solely for the print.  I'd like to find it in a jersey.

Friday, September 7, 2018

(Mostly) McCall's 7561 in Green Paisley ITY Knit

Things have been hopping on the Bespokeability factory floor.  I can't seem to stop making McCall's 6886s--it's such a versatile pattern.  But, that's not what I'm going to show you today.  This dress, McCall's 7561, was finished some time ago, but I wanted to document it on the blog.  I should mention that the dress was made for my daughter, Mehetabel.
I just love this fabric!  It's an ITY knit from Spandex House in New York's garment district, purchased a few years ago.

Contrary to the directions, I chose to underline the bodice.  I used a beige swimsuit lining.  For the neckline, I created a facing which I interfaced with a knit fusible from Fashion Sewing Supply and finished on the serger.  The facing was hand sewn to the underlining.

I shortened the long sleeves to 3/4 length and hemmed them on my coverstitch machine.

 The shoulders were stabilized with stay tape.

The pattern calls for a gathered skirt.  I chose to make a flared A-line instead.  For that, I used the skirt pattern from New Look 6301 and added ten inches to the length.  The skirt was hemmed on my coverstitch machine.

I wish I'd taken a video to show the movement of the skirt.  It's just lovely.

It's hard to see here, but I added a sewn-in sash.  The sash pieces are sewn to the side seams and are long enough to wrap around her waist three times.

This dress will transition nicely for autumn.  Add boots and a cardigan and Mehetabel will be ready for cooler temperatures!