Friday, June 29, 2018

Summer Sheath, #1: Butterick 5768

I've been searching for the perfect summer dress pattern.  Something for my daughter, the not-her-real-name Mehetabel, who'd requested some cool and casual dresses for our hot, arid summer. After some discussion and a little trial and error, we settled on a sleeveless sheath with minimal shaping.  For the first try, I purchased Butterick 5768, one of their See & Sew patterns.



In years past, I'd sewn a number of McCall's 2401s for Mehetabel.  It's a great pattern which is now out-of-print.  I'd made a number of changes to that pattern to fit Mehetabel's slender, athletic, 6-foot frame, but unfortunately, I haven't found the altered pattern since my recent out-of-state move.  I'm sure I didn't throw it away, but it isn't in my sewing boxes.  Boo, hiss!  So, it was time to start over. This time, I knew Mehetabel wanted a looser and more casual fit, so I picked up a couple possibilities during one of Joann's pattern sales.  
Why, yes, it is easy!
The fabric is a poly/cotton broadcloth from Joann, purchased a couple years ago at great discount: perfect for (hopefully!) wearable muslins.  The underlining is white batiste from the late Hancock Fabrics.

This is another simple pattern, but as I often do, I managed to make it a bit more complicated.  The pattern calls for a lining, but I decided to underline this first version instead.


Most of the pattern's shaping comes from bust darts in the front and French darts in the back.  I could always add French darts to the front for a more fitted look.


To finish the neckline and armscyes, I traced one-piece facings from the front and back pattern pieces.  I interfaced the facings with a lightweight fusible from Fashion Sewing Supply, and finished the raw edges with the serger.


Instead of a standard zipper, I used an invisible one.


All seam allowances were finished on the serger, and I hand-stitched the facings and hem to the underlining.


So, what does Mehetabel think?  She likes it and will wear it, but would prefer a bit more room in the skirt and a little more shaping to the front mid-section.  I have a few more patterns to try!  


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