A Dress of Many Colors

This is another new dress for Mehetabel.  It is New Look 6301 which I've made quite a few times, but always sleeveless and with the straight skirt.  I blogged about two of these dresses, here and here. I also made this dress for the officiant at Mehetabel and Aloysius's wedding, as well as versions for the bridesmaids (but we wound up going with a more formal style).

This iteration has 3/4 length sleeves, the length Mehetabel prefers for a sleeved dress or top.  Like the previous versions, I added 10 inches to the belt pieces.  I also lengthened the skirt by 10 inches to make it more of a midi length.  And, I decided to try something that Andrea of Sew to Fit did on her version--I used the right front piece for both sides of the bodice instead of the pattern piece provided for the left front which just has a tuck in it.  I was curious to see how this would affect the bodice's fit.  Okay, really, I just liked the idea of cutting out one less piece. 

And while I like the look of using the same front bodice pieces, this bodice is a bit too loose and the neckline is too low for Mehetabel to wear to work without a camisole underneath.  But other than that, the dress fits well, it's comfortable, she loves the colorful fabric and the length of the skirt (swishy!), and it works perfectly with her boots.

Before starting this blog, I had made several McCall's 5974s for Mehetabel and she loves them. However, the length of the skirt didn't work well with her boots, so she wears the dresses in warmer weather with other shoes.  The proportions just weren't right with her boots.  So with this pattern, I thought it would be fun to see if we could come up with a faux-wrap style with a length she'd like with her boots.  This does the trick!  

I have a couple fabrics in my stash that I think Mehetabel would love in this style, but they're precious and no longer available for purchase so I don't want to make any mistakes with them.  To make sure everything was copacetic with the sleeve length, the skirt shape and style, and the experiment with the bodice front pieces, I whipped up this version in a fabric that I bought at a deep discount and is still available.

The polyester/spandex ITY knit is from Joann which I purchased last summer at a 60% discount. The fabric has almost all the colors of the rainbow, and I dithered about which color to use for the coverstitch, finally deciding on purple.  My Babylock coverstitch machine sailed through like a champ, but my computerized Janome sewing machine had fits with this fabric.  I can't begin to tell you how many needle changes I made, how many times I re-threaded the machine and the bobbin, how many times I fooled with the tension, etc.  Eventually, I gave up and switched to my 33-year-old mechanical Bernina which handled the fabric perfectly.   All seams were finished with the serger.

The neckline was finished on with the coverstitch, as were the sleeve and dress hems which were sewn at 5/8".  The shoulder seams were stabilized with twill tape.  The sleeves were sewn in flat, and the skirt pieces were sewn to the bodice pieces and then the side seams were sewn.  The fabric is fairly heavy, and after finishing the dress--but before Mehetabel tried it on--I was worried that the heaviness of the fabric combined with the extra 10 inches of skirt length was just too, too much for the dress to keep its shape.  

Coverstitched neckline

The instructions call for elastic at the waist--in a casing made from the seam allowances.  I'm not a big fan of this method.  I hadn't added the elastic to my earlier versions, but after I'd finished constructing this dress, I added clear elastic to the front and back waist sections (sewn onto the seam allowances).  This gives the skirt a little more support.   

Mr. Arbuthnot, the Bespokeability studio supervisor and design assistant, approved of this dress. He found the leftover fabric soft and silky--ideal for a nap, rendering him unavailable for today's photography session.  However, his assistant and good friend, Björn,  took his new duties quite seriously.

Björn lives with Mehetabel and Aloysius.  He is almost six-months-old and a sweetie-pie.

To Make a Short Story Long: My Take on McCall's 6886

These days, I'm trying to squeeze in sewing whenever I can--that is, whenever my new studio supervisor, pictured in the sidebar (big smile, heart-shaped nose, large pink tongue), is snoozing. Mr. Arbuthnot is a delightful, mischievous, and cuddly young man who wants to be with me all the time; however, he is also very curious.  He thinks anything and everything was put on this earth for him to chew and swallow.  So, it shouldn't be any surprise that my studio supervisor isn't actually allowed in the studio!  Sewing now happens when he is safely tucked in bed.

Mr. Arbuthnot in his younger days.
Look at that cute little tummy!

Mr. Arbuthnot has been in my life for several months now.  I love him, but I have missed spending time in my studio.  I thought a few quick projects in the evening would satisfy my sewing cravings and help me figure out how to balance my peppy pup's needs with my own.

No, that's not Mr. Arbuthnot.  It's his assistant, Björn.

For my first project during Mr. Arbuthnot's sleepy time, I chose the ubiquitous McCall's 6886. There are loads of reviews online for this dress, many of which stress how easy and versatile it is. And I agree.  It is easy and versatile.  But in true bespokeability fashion, I took a simple pattern and made it much more complicated than it needed to be.  Heh.  Oh well.

I made this dress for my daughter, Mehetabel, to wear with her brown suede boots.  (It is still plenty cold to wear boots here; it's snowing as I write this.)  For this first version, I raided my stash. The fabric is a super soft and lightweight crepe jersey from www.fabricmartfabrics.com, and features small geometric shapes in dark chocolate, passion fruit, café au lait, and apricot.  I'm hungry.

So, how did I complicate matters?  Well, I decided the fabric was a bit too thin for Mehetabel to feel comfortable wearing it while teaching.  To fix that, I decided to line the dress, but in a different manner than I normally would.  Well, except I have kinda/sorta done it before.  For this dress, I wrote about Sandra Betzina's method for lining knit pants which I adapted for lining the skirt of that dress--and it worked very well.  I thought I could use the same method for lining this dress; I particularly like that it creates a clean, nicely finished hem.  I also decided to use the same method on the sleeves.  The sleeves didn't really need to be lined; it was my laziness--not wanting to hem the sleeves--that caused me to do it.

Close-up of the lining/hem

I used tricot, purchased at Mill End in Portland, Oregon, to line the dress.  Except "line" isn't entirely accurate.  While I did line the sleeves, body of the dress, and shoulders from the hem up, I treated the fabric/lining as one for the armscyes and neckline.  After the sleeves were attached to the lined/underlined dress, I serged the armscye seams.  The pattern calls for turning under the seam allowance at the neck and stitching it down.  I prefer to face necklines as I think it creates a more polished product.  So I traced the front and back necklines from the pattern pieces and drew facing patterns.  I almost wrote that I "drafted" facings, but that seems a bit grandiose for what I actually did!   I fused interfacing to the fabric prior to cutting out the facing pieces (more laziness!).  

I do love the clean neckline

Even though I made a series of mistakes while making this dress, I'm very pleased with the outcome.  I think Mehetabel looks great in it, and more importantly, she likes it!  The lining gives a nice finish to the dress, although I'll do things a little differently next time.  

Order of Operations and Blunders / Notes to Self:

• After pre-treating the fabric and determining my preliminary changes to the size 14 pattern pieces for length, I cut out the fashion fabric and the tricot lining pieces.
• The tricot is significantly heavier than the fashion fabric.  The tricot also has a two-way stretch whereas the fashion fabric has a four-way stretch.  I thought these things might possibly cause problems, but damn the torpedoes, I wanted to sew so it was full speed ahead!  Except for the miscalculation for the lining's length, the tricot worked well.
• I am embarrassed to say that I had a terrible time figuring out how much shorter the lining should be from the fashion fabric.  I took 2.25 inches off the length of the lining.  This created a deeper hem, but with the heaviness of the tricot, the fashion fabric didn't have enough support at the hemline to make it as clean as I would've liked.  If I do this again, I'll take one inch off the length of the lining--and/or beef up the fashion fabric with some fusible interfacing at the hem.  
• For the next steps, I pressed each seam well before moving on to sewing the successive seams.
• I sewed the bottom of the lining dress front to the bottom of the fashion fabric dress front, right sides together.  Then I did the same for the dress back pieces.  The lining pieces were 2 1/4 inches shorter than the fashion fabric.
• I pinned the fashion fabric front to the back and the lining front to the back (these pieces were already connected at the hem) and sewed the side seams, making a long tube.  I turned it right side out, matching the lining with the outer fabric at the armscyes and neckline.
• I stabilized the fashion fabric shoulders with fusible interfacing and sewed front/back shoulder seams of the fashion fabric right sides together, and then repeated this with the lining shoulder seams.
• I attached the hem of the sleeve pieces (lining and fashion fabric) right sides together. The lining was one inch shorter than the fashion fabric.  This is what I should have done for the dress pieces!  Nuts.
• Like the dress, I sewed the sleeve side seams together (fashion-hem-lining), turned the tube right side out and basted the lining/fashion fabric at the top of the sleeve.
• I prefer to sew sleeves in flat, but because of my lining experiment, the sleeves were set in.  The fashion fabric/lining of the sleeves were treated as one--ditto the dress's armscyes.  I managed to snag excess amounts of the lining fabric into my seams.  And I had quality time with my seam ripper. 
• After unpicking white thread from white lining, I serged the armscye seams.
• I made the facing pieces, finished the raw edges, sewed them together, and sewed them to the neckline (treating fashion fabric and lining as one) in a 5/8 inch seam.  After trimming and pressing, I hand stitched the facing edge to the lining/underlining so it would stay put.  It amuses me that I was too lazy to use my coverstitch machine to hem the sleeves, but had no problem hand sewing the neck facing in place.

So, that's it.  That's what I did.  Was it worth it?  Yes, I think so.  This dress looks polished and professional, and it is appropriate for Mehetabel to wear in her high school classroom.  I envision all sorts of possibilities for this pattern.

The Sciencey Dress: Simplicity 2444

It's almost time for Mehetabel to head back to the classroom, and that means finally putting the finishing touches on another novelty-print dress.  

I found this fabric last spring at Mill End Fabrics in Portland, Oregon, and I knew Mehetabel would love it as she was co-teaching freshman science at the time (as well as teaching her special education caseload).  

Well, I almost had it finished in time for the end of school, but then the zipper broke!  Drat.  It took me all summer to get around to replacing it.  Now that I have, Mehetabel is excited to wear it to class, even though she isn't teaching science this trimester--she's sticking with special education and co-teaching sophomore English.

The fabric is called "Chromatics by Melissa McCulloch Designs for In the Beginning Fabrics 2015."  It is a quilting cotton, so to give it more body, I underlined it with batiste.  Of course I did.  I almost always underline fabric it seems!

The pattern is Simplicity 2444, one of Mehetabel's favorites, and I've made it for her a number of times--and I'll probably make it more times too!  As I have with all but my first version of this pattern, I used facing pieces I drafted rather than the bias strip finish used in the instructions.  The facing pieces (1 back, 1 front neckline/armscye) were interfaced, the edges were finished on the serger, and about 1/8" was trimmed from the neck and armscyes prior to sewing; this helps keep the facings from rolling to the right side of the the dress.  The facings were then hand-sewn to the underlining.

I used a white invisible zipper.  Twice.  The first one was kaput.  I don't mind installing zippers, but I draw the line at sewing them in more than once after the dress is completed!  The hem was hand-sewn.

Mehetabel told me the dress is perfect.  Yay!  It also goes well with her hot pink accessories--

 --as well as her new hot pink pencils all ready for the classroom in her "I've got to be moi" mug! 

 TTFN!

Painting the Roses Red: New Look 6723

When I happened upon a 60% off coupon from Joann Fabrics, I couldn't resist purchasing this pretty Swiss dot fabric--part of the Gertie collection--and I knew Mehetabel would love the red rose print.

 The pattern is New Look 6723.  I made view B (the one in black), but scooped the neckline.  

This classic style was very easy to make.  I underlined the skirt and lined the bodice with white batiste, installed an invisible zipper, and stitched the hem by hand.  

 

The front skirt gathers were concentrated between the side bodice pieces, because I know Mehetabel prefers that--she likes the look and comfort of a full skirt, but doesn't like it too puffy.  The back skirt gathers were concentrated similarly.

Now, I may have mentioned before that Mehetabel and I are tall.  She is 6 feet, and I am 5'10".  Why do I mention this?  Well, I always, always, always, make pattern adjustments.  I know, who doesn't?  The majority of Mehetabel's height is in her legs, so while I didn't add any length to the bodice, I did add four inches to the skirt.  Usually, especially if it's a pattern I've used before, I tape the appropriate amount of paper to the skirt pieces.  But this time, I decided to use my gauge and mark the inches right on the fabric.  And then I forgot all about that when I cut out the back skirt pieces.  Nuts! 

The dress would be too short, and I hadn't yet cut the front skirt, but I didn't have enough fabric to cut new back skirt pieces.  So, I matched the print and added a strip to the back skirt, but there was nothing left for the hem.  To solve that little problem, I faced the hem with more batiste (made into bias strips).  The skirt wound up being an inch or two shorter than I intended, but I think the length looks good.  The patched strip is only noticeable if you pick up the skirt and stare at it; hopefully, Mehetabel's students will be disinclined to do that!  It's certainly not my best work, but better than scrapping the whole project.

Now it's time for daughter and mother to get out of the bright, bright sun and enjoy a frosty beverage!

P.S.  While making this dress, I couldn't get the Disney song "Painting the Roses Red," out of my head!  I haven't watched that version of Alice in Wonderland for ages, but the song is front and center in my head.  "...Not blue, not green, not aquamarine.  We're painting the roses red."  No wonder I screwed up the back skirt! 

Cobalt and Lime: New Look 6301

Although I made this dress awhile ago, I needed to tweak the fit a bit.  Here is "Mehetabel" in the new, improved version:

You might be able to tell from her smile that Mehetabel likes this dress!  The fabric, an ITY knit, was purchased online several years ago from www.fabricmartfabrics.com. 

This is New Look 6301, the same pattern I used for this dress.  I decided to fully line this version, and thus eliminated the neck- and arm-bands.  Because I was a little worried that the neck and arms would gape, I sandwiched clear elastic between the fashion fabric and the lining--this keeps everything snug with no gaping issues. 

I didn't add any elastic to the waist, although the instructions call for a casing made from the seam allowances.  I added ten inches to each tie.  This way the belt can be wrapped around her 2+ times and helps define her waist.  Another benefit of a long tie is that it can be loosened after a big meal!

The photo, above, is what I got when I asked for a side view!  Here's a more sedate profile:

To line the skirt, I tried a method I saw on a Sandra Betzina video.  Although her method was for lining knit pants, I figured it would work on a skirt too.  This is what I did (and I pressed the various seams after each step):  I cut the tricot lining pieces 2 inches shorter than the skirt pieces.  I sewed one side seam on the skirt, and one on the lining.  Next, I sewed these two pieces right sides together at the hem.  Then I sewed the remaining side seam, starting at the top of the lining, going through the hem, and on to the top of the fashion fabric--this makes a long tube.  After pressing the skirt, I turned it right side out, matched the waist of the lining with the waist of the skirt, and pressed it again.  It worked perfectly!  I love the invisible (and easy hem) and the neatly done lining.  If you'd like to see the Sandra Betzina video, click here.

I'm going to make this pattern again; next time, I'll make 3/4 length sleeves and a flared skirt.  Also, since the front bodice pieces are cut in such a way that there's little stretch--but also no gaping--I will try cutting them on grain and see how that works out.

Orange Shift: Simplicity 1609

While Mehetabel was on her honeymoon, I decided to whip up an easy summer dress in the hopes it would be one for the win column.  Well-- Not so much. 

 

Simplicity 1609 is a Jiffy pattern re-issued from the 1960s.  I was feeling nostalgic, and that's probably why I went ahead with this pattern even though I had a few misgivings after seeing some other versions on the internet.  There were some adorable versions too, but alas, this isn't one of them!   I also was concerned that the neckline/shoulders would be awkward, but I did like the A-line shape.

I purchased the pattern, on sale, for 99 cents, and used a very old piece of fabric that I had previously used for bodice muslins for bridesmaid dresses.  So really, my only risk was in the time it took me to cut and sew this dress.

 

I knew there would be a possibility that the dress wouldn't fit well since Mehetabel was gone for several weeks and I couldn't fit it on her.  I did compare her measurements with the pattern pieces, and I wound up making one size larger than normal.  And it shows.  The dress is comfortable and cool, but...

 

I think it is just okay.  I'm sure if I tweaked the fit considerably, it would be fine, but I just don't think it is worth it when there are so many other patterns available!  It'll be fine for running errands on hot days.

I used a tangerine invisible zipper for the back closure.  All seam allowances were finished with the serger.

I had some orange bias seam tape on hand, so I used that to finish the hand-stitched hem.

Phooey.  I started this blog to track my sewing "hits and misses," and this is a miss.  Oh well.  I'll be back with a better looking dress soon!

 

I received several e-mails asking if there really was a live porcupine at Mehetabel's wedding.  Yes, indeed, there was, and here's photographic evidence, above.  The porcupine was very calm and spent most of her time munching on carrot sticks.

 

I have yet to see a live porcupine in my yard, but it is overrun with rock chucks, aka yellow bellied marmutes--they look like 24-lb pear-shaped squirrels.  And, they don't seem to care for weeds, but they love my lawn and just about every flower I've planted.  Varmints!  They are cute little beasts, prodigious diggers and breeders, and they aren't scared of me at all!





Simplicity/New Look Mash-Up: The Dream Vacation Dress

I've been absent from the blog for a bit--but I have a pretty good excuse.  My daughter, *Mehetabel, and her fiancé, *Aloysius, got married earlier this summer!  It was a fabulous evening (if I do say so myself).  The bride wore her favorite color:  pink!  I had the pleasure of making the dresses for the attendants and the officiant.   And, in addition to loads of family and friends, there was a porcupine in attendance! 

 

After the happy couple returned from several weeks in Kauai, Mehetabel and I took a shopping trip to Portland, Oregon.  One of our stops was at my new favorite store:  Mill End.  While we were there, Mehetabel spied this darling fabric and asked if I'd make her a dress.  The answer?  Yes!

 

 

The fabric is from Robert Kaufman, and it is called "Dream Vacation."  From a quick look online, it appears to be sold at many fabric stores.  It is cotton and is 44 inches wide. 

M likes Simplicity 2444 (who doesn't?)--particularly the bodice which I used for this dress.  But, since 2444's skirt is a fabric hog, I used the skirt from New Look 6910 (now OOP) because I knew I wouldn't have enough fabric for the skirt otherwise.  New Look 6910's skirt has pleats, but I simply gathered the skirt. 

 

To make this quilting cotton a bit heftier, I underlined the dress in batiste; it is still a light dress, but it is now thoroughly opaque and has a bit more body.

Simplicity 2444 calls for binding at the armscyes and a narrow facing at the neckline.  I am not crazy about binding and prefer fairly substantial facings instead (unless the dress is lined).  For my many iterations of this bodice, I've made one-piece neck/armscye facings for the front and back, interfaced them with lightweight fusible interfacing, and finished the edges on the serger.  Since the dress is underlined, it is easy to hand stitch the facings to the underlining.  

A bit cock-eyed on the dress form

There's another thing I do when sewing facings--and I am by no means the only one who does this, I know!  My facing pattern pieces are trimmed 3/16" at the armscye and neckline to help to keep the facings from rolling to the outside.

I used a black invisible zipper for the closure, and I finished all seams with bright yellow thread in the serger. 

Mehetabel (and I) have been to many of the locales shown on this dress, but I wanted to highlight two and place them center front on the bodice:  San Francisco (her birthplace) and Paris (a favorite city).

I used bright yellow bias tape and stitched the hem by hand.  On a side note, I told M that this was a double feature dress in that I watched Under the Tuscan Sun and The Fugitive while making it.  I like to listen to music or have streaming video playing in the background when I sew--and, I only play shows I've seen before because otherwise I get too distracted!

 

So tell me, what's new with you?  Do you like to watch TV/movies while sewing?

 

 

*Not their real names!