Summer Sheath, #1: Butterick 5768

I've been searching for the perfect summer dress pattern.  Something for my daughter, the not-her-real-name Mehetabel, who'd requested some cool and casual dresses for our hot, arid summer. After some discussion and a little trial and error, we settled on a sleeveless sheath with minimal shaping.  For the first try, I purchased Butterick 5768, one of their See & Sew patterns.

In years past, I'd sewn a number of McCall's 2401s for Mehetabel.  It's a great pattern which is now out-of-print.  I'd made a number of changes to that pattern to fit Mehetabel's slender, athletic, 6-foot frame, but unfortunately, I haven't found the altered pattern since my recent out-of-state move.  I'm sure I didn't throw it away, but it isn't in my sewing boxes.  Boo, hiss!  So, it was time to start over. This time, I knew Mehetabel wanted a looser and more casual fit, so I picked up a couple possibilities during one of Joann's pattern sales.  

Why, yes, it is easy!

The fabric is a poly/cotton broadcloth from Joann, purchased a couple years ago at great discount: perfect for (hopefully!) wearable muslins.  The underlining is white batiste from the late Hancock Fabrics.

This is another simple pattern, but as I often do, I managed to make it a bit more complicated.  The pattern calls for a lining, but I decided to underline this first version instead.

Most of the pattern's shaping comes from bust darts in the front and French darts in the back.  I could always add French darts to the front for a more fitted look.

To finish the neckline and armscyes, I traced one-piece facings from the front and back pattern pieces.  I interfaced the facings with a lightweight fusible from Fashion Sewing Supply, and finished the raw edges with the serger.

Instead of a standard zipper, I used an invisible one.

All seam allowances were finished on the serger, and I hand-stitched the facings and hem to the underlining.

So, what does Mehetabel think?  She likes it and will wear it, but would prefer a bit more room in the skirt and a little more shaping to the front mid-section.  I have a few more patterns to try!  

Vogue 9311: Another Summer Dress

There's a decided 70s flair to some of the current pattern offerings.  The last dress I made, Vogue 9312, is one such pattern.  This one, Vogue 9311, also fits the bill.  Maybe that's why I was so determined to make both dresses.  I came of age in the 70s (the late 70s!), and perhaps I'm feeling a bit nostalgic.

The changes I made to the pattern included adding a little more length to both the flounce and the skirt.  I also chose to line the bodice which gave it a nice, clean finish.  It also helped insure the bodice pieces were opaque.  But with such a busy print, that wasn't too much of a concern.

This is another easy-to-make pattern.  The hardest part?  Pinning the flounce on the skirt!  And that wasn't hard, it was just tedious.

The ties are long enough to tie in the back or wrap around to the front which is how Mehetabel chose to wear it for these photos.

The bodice is lined with white batiste.  I wanted to keep the dress as cool as possible.  As I usually do, I trimmed about 1/8 inch off the neck and armscyes to help keep the lining from showing.

The fabric is a very lightweight cotton sateen from Mill End Fabrics in Reno, Nevada.  It has sort of a batik-y look to it, and I thought that would work well with this style of dress.  When I pre-washed it, the black dye bled like crazy, so I suggested to Mehetabel that she use a color catcher sheet when laundering the dress.  The fabric came out of the dryer without any wrinkles, so huzzah for easy-care fabrics!

Mehetabel wanted some hot weather dresses, and this one does the job nicely!

She likes it!

Vogue 9312: Pretty Pink Summer Dress

When I saw Vogue 9312 in the pattern book, I had to have it!  It reminds me of a John Kloss design.  Kloss was one of my favorite designers when I was in college; I loved his style.  Well, Vogue 9312 would expose a bit more of me than I'd care to, but I figured it would be perfect for my daughter, Mehetabel.  She'd mentioned that she could use some hot weather dresses.  Coming right up!

This pattern went together quickly and easily.  The instructions call for lining just the front bodice piece and turning under the seam allowances on the back bodice.  I chose to line both bodice pieces instead and I'm pleased with the result.  I used stay tape on the shoulders and omitted the topstitching.  

All seam allowances were serged except for those covered by the lining.  The hem was done on my coverstitch machine.  I considered omitting the elastic (in a channel under the bodice), but I decided the dress probably needed a little extra support.

Twirly!

The fabric was purchased online from FabricMart at least a year ago.  It is one of their "Hawaiian Designer" ITY knits, so I suspect it is from Tori Richard.  It's a lovely fabric and has great drape.  I knew Mehetabel would like it too; we both love pink! 

Mehetabel was a high school teacher for years and there's no way she'd have worn this in the classroom!  But now she's a full time PhD student--and she still wouldn't wear this in the classroom!!  However, it is a perfect dress for sipping cocktails on the deck, going out for Sunday brunch, or myriad other activities.  It'll also be a great travel dress; just roll it up and throw it in a suitcase.

Tummy rub!

She likes it!