Tuesday, September 18, 2018

New Look 6301 in Minty/Aqua ITY Knit

I've made New Look 6301 quite a few times, but this is the first time I paired the 3/4 length sleeves with the straight skirt.  That's not earth-shattering, I know!  

This is another dress that I've made for my daughter, Mehetabel.  Previously, I've made her two straight skirted versions with sleeveless bodices (blogged here and here) as well as one with a flared skirt and 3/4 length sleeves (blogged here).

I've also made sleeveless, straight skirted versions for Mehetabel's bridesmaids as a possible option (although we went with a more formal look for the wedding) and another for the wedding officiant.

For this version, I lined the skirt as I did the cobalt and lime version, but I didn't line the bodice. (Why?!  I don't know!)  I also lengthened the skirt a couple inches to Mehetabel's preferred straight skirt length.  Shorter looks great when she's standing, but she's uncomfortable when sitting as the skirt rides up.

On an earlier version, I tried using the right front bodice piece for both sides with limited success. This time, I went back to the original pattern pieces.  I like this pattern, but the neckline can be a bit revealing.

The fabric is an ITY that I liked so much I purchased it twice: first from Gorgeous Fabrics and then I saw it for half (HALF!) the price at Spandex House.  Right now, it is available at Fabrics World USA for $7/yard.  I made a cardigan and top for me from the other yardage.

I love, love, love, florals, but I also like variety, so when I see a non-floral print in a fabrication I like, I snap it up.  This fabric is one of those purchases.  I love the colors, and while it may be a bit more appropriate for spring, our (almost) fall temperatures are still quite toasty.

Like the other versions, I added ten inches to the length of the belt.  I added elastic to the waist seam allowance.  All seams were sewn on my regular machine, with the seam allowances trimmed and finished on the serger.  The sleeves were hemmed on my coverstitch machine.

I think I will retire this pattern--at least for a little while.  I'm going to give McCall's 6884 a go.  I'm a sucker for a surplice neckline and a mock wrap skirt.

Monday, September 10, 2018

(Yet Another) McCall's 6886: Raspberry Paisley Mesh

I know, I know.  You've seen this one before--the pattern, that is!  But it's such a versatile (and easy!) pattern that I just had to document this raspberry version on my blog.

This is another McCall's 6886, with a jewel neck, 3/4 length sleeves, and a slightly looser cut through the body (as requested). 

The fabric is a yummy raspberry/red/orchid mesh which I purchased in the NYC garment district years ago.  

The dress is underlined in a beige mystery knit.  And, as I am wont to do, I created facings--interfaced and finished on the serger--to complete the neckline.  The pattern calls for turning under 5/8" and stitching.  I think this finish looks better.  Also, the facings were hand-sewn to the underlining.

Here's a close-up of the fabric

All seams were constructed on my sewing machine and the seam allowances were trimmed and finished on my serger.  
 The hems were done on the coverstitch machine. 
At Mehetabel's request, I added a little ease to the body of the dress.  She doesn't wear body-con at work.
I love the color and print of this fabric, but I have to admit that mesh is not my favorite fabrication.  I bought this fabric solely for the print.  I'd like to find it in a jersey.



Friday, September 7, 2018

(Mostly) McCall's 7561 in Green Paisley ITY Knit

Things have been hopping on the Bespokeability factory floor.  I can't seem to stop making McCall's 6886s--it's such a versatile pattern.  But, that's not what I'm going to show you today.  This dress, McCall's 7561, was finished some time ago, but I wanted to document it on the blog.  I should mention that the dress was made for my daughter, Mehetabel.
I just love this fabric!  It's an ITY knit from Spandex House in New York's garment district, purchased a few years ago.

Contrary to the directions, I chose to underline the bodice.  I used a beige swimsuit lining.  For the neckline, I created a facing which I interfaced with a knit fusible from Fashion Sewing Supply and finished on the serger.  The facing was hand sewn to the underlining.

I shortened the long sleeves to 3/4 length and hemmed them on my coverstitch machine.

 The shoulders were stabilized with stay tape.

The pattern calls for a gathered skirt.  I chose to make a flared A-line instead.  For that, I used the skirt pattern from New Look 6301 and added ten inches to the length.  The skirt was hemmed on my coverstitch machine.




I wish I'd taken a video to show the movement of the skirt.  It's just lovely.

It's hard to see here, but I added a sewn-in sash.  The sash pieces are sewn to the side seams and are long enough to wrap around her waist three times.

This dress will transition nicely for autumn.  Add boots and a cardigan and Mehetabel will be ready for cooler temperatures!