Tuesday, August 25, 2015

Cobalt and Lime: New Look 6301

Although I made this dress awhile ago, I needed to tweak the fit a bit.  Here is "Mehetabel" in the new, improved version:
You might be able to tell from her smile that Mehetabel likes this dress!  The fabric, an ITY knit, was purchased online several years ago from www.fabricmartfabrics.com. 
This is New Look 6301, the same pattern I used for this dress.  I decided to fully line this version, and thus eliminated the neck- and arm-bands.  Because I was a little worried that the neck and arms would gape, I sandwiched clear elastic between the fashion fabric and the lining--this keeps everything snug with no gaping issues. 
I didn't add any elastic to the waist, although the instructions call for a casing made from the seam allowances.  I added ten inches to each tie.  This way the belt can be wrapped around her 2+ times and helps define her waist.  Another benefit of a long tie is that it can be loosened after a big meal!
The photo, above, is what I got when I asked for a side view!  Here's a more sedate profile:
To line the skirt, I tried a method I saw on a Sandra Betzina video.  Although her method was for lining knit pants, I figured it would work on a skirt too.  This is what I did (and I pressed the various seams after each step):  I cut the tricot lining pieces 2 inches shorter than the skirt pieces.  I sewed one side seam on the skirt, and one on the lining.  Next, I sewed these two pieces right sides together at the hem.  Then I sewed the remaining side seam, starting at the top of the lining, going through the hem, and on to the top of the fashion fabric--this makes a long tube.  After pressing the skirt, I turned it right side out, matched the waist of the lining with the waist of the skirt, and pressed it again.  It worked perfectly!  I love the invisible (and easy hem) and the neatly done lining.  If you'd like to see the Sandra Betzina video, click here.
I'm going to make this pattern again; next time, I'll make 3/4 length sleeves and a flared skirt.  Also, since the front bodice pieces are cut in such a way that there's little stretch--but also no gaping--I will try cutting them on grain and see how that works out.

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