Butterick 5362 (from 1998) in Navy Floral

I've had Butterick 5362 for ages, but I had never used until this project. The pattern is from 1998, and it seems readily available on Etsy, Amazon, and eBay.

My daughter, the not-her-real-name Mehetabel, is nursing her baby (my grandson! 💖), and I am determined to make her some usable (and hopefully cute) clothing. Yes, things that button up the front are great choices, but I got to thinking that a dress that zips in front would be easy to use. That's where Butterick 5362 entered the picture. I was perusing my pattern stash and couldn't find exactly what I wanted, so when I saw this pattern I thought it would do.

The pattern is for a pullover dress without closures. Instead of cutting the front bodice on the fold, I added 5/8" seam allowance so that I could add a zipper. I knew that just putting a zipper in the bodice wouldn't be enough, so I also added a center front seam and seam allowance to the skirt.

I used a 22" invisible zipper down the front, and I'm happy to say it works well!

I decided not to use the included skirt pattern because I thought Mehetabel might prefer something looser in our 100 degree heat. The skirt is made up of two rectangles the width of the fabric--one width in back and one width (split down the center) in front. I then added a 12" (plus seam allowance and hem) tier to the dress--this was made with 3 widths. 

The bodice is self-lined. I used my usual trick of trimming the lining about 1/8" smaller at the neckline and armscyes. I used the burrito method to enclose the armscyes.

Ties were added at the bodice to help draw the dress in.

I, probably foolishly, hemmed the bottom tier by hand--because I felt like it and I like to keep my hands busy while watching TV. But after I'd hemmed about a third of it, I was questioning my sanity! Oh well. It looks nice!

The fabric is something I've had in my stash for ages. It was designed by Joan Kessler for Concord Fabrics. I don't know exactly when it is from, but I'd guess the late 80s/early 90s. It's cotton broadcloth, and washes and dries like a dream. I thought the fabric would work well for a hot weather dress.

Now that I've worked out the kinks on this pattern, I might make it again--I'm thinking a double gauze would be nice. I also just made a muslin of Jalie 2787--the Criss-Cross Top. I'd like to make one for myself, and I'd also like to make some for Mehetabel because the top is nursing-friendly. I also want to make some shorts and I'm thinking of trying the Closet Core Pietras.

I hope all is well with you and that you are sewing up a storm! ~ Peggy

Butterick 6085 in Robert Kaufman Floral Cotton Lawn

Hello, hello! I'm back (!) with a top for my daughter, Mehetabel. She is the mother of a 3-month old boy--my first grandchild!--and she is in need of suitable/comfortable clothes for breastfeeding. I've raided my own closet for button-up tops for her to borrow, but I thought I'd make something for her. I remember feeling a bit dowdy and uninspired in my clothing choices back when I was in her position, so I thought an accessible top in a pretty fabric might do the trick. Plus, it's starting to get pretty hot here in the high desert, so why not something sleeveless and cool?

First, I tried the Melody Dolman from Love Notions. I just have to do the buttons and buttonholes on that one. I also tried a pattern from my stash: Butterick 6085. This pattern is now out of print--it was published in 2001--but it was in the catalog for many years. It's a classic button up top with a camp-style collar and various options. To see if this would work for Mehetabel, I made up a sleeveless version with darts at the bust. It is a little large, but I wanted to accommodate the pumping paraphernalia. 

The fabric is a Robert Kaufman cotton lawn in a pretty blues/teals/turquoise floral print, purchased from Fabric.com.  I didn't have any coordinating buttons in my stash, so I picked up some white ones at a local store.

I should've straightened the top before I snapped the photo!

The instructions have you clip into the seam allowance on the middle of the collar facing to enclose the neck seam. I've had success with this method multiple times, but I thought I'd try something else. I made a facing piece for the back neckline. I had limited success with this. I interfaced the facing (probably a mistake) and I had difficulty getting the facing to lay flat--but it's good enough.  I think I'll go back to the original method.

The only other change I made was to add three inches in length.

The interfacing I used for the facings and collar is pretty crisp; if I had had something lighter on hand, that's what I would've preferred. 

I thought I'd try using my sewing machine to sew on the buttons as I'd never done that before. I successfully did one, but it was too difficult to continue. I wound up buying a foot specifically for attaching buttons, but by that time, I'd hand-sewn the buttons on the top.

This is a casual top that'll work well with a pair of shorts or jeans. I'll see if she likes this size, or if she feels it is too roomy.

The armsyces were finished with store-bought bias tape. I was planning to make some from the fabric, but since I had a coordinating color on hand, I went with it!

Right now, I'm working on a dress for my daughter using another out-of-print pattern. I've created a center-front seam and am inserting an invisible zip down the front. I'm hoping this will be breast-feeding friendly. We'll see! It might be about time to sew an old favorite which won't be so much of a question mark!

Anywho, that's all for me. I hope you are well and sewing up a storm! ~ Peggy

A Lilly Knock-Off?

Well, I've had an eventful few months. But now I'm back and rarin' to go! This post will mark a turning point for me in that I will be featured in this post. In the past, the majority of my posts have featured my daughter, the not-her-real-name Mehetabel. But don't worry; there will be plenty of new Mom-made goodies for Mehetabel! This time, I'm sticking my toes in the water, ready for a day out, sans makeup.

I actually made this top for my daughter a few years ago, but it was never something she cared for so it's been sitting in the time-out pile for awhile. I loved the fabric, so I decided to re-vamp it for myself. But actually, all I had to do was cut off the hem and raise it by about three inches. Easy-peasy. 

I eliminated the center-front seam in the yoke and the center slit. The yoke was cut on the fold. Other than those tiny changes, nothing else was done to the pattern.

The fabric was purchased several years ago from Joann, so I doubt it is in stock any longer. It was a relatively easy sew, just a little fiddly putting in the yoke. I made self-bias binding for the armscyes and (re)hemmed it by hand.

You might recognize the fabric from this out-of-print pattern envelope:

The pattern I used is out-of-print McCall's 7128 and since I prefer some upper arm coverage, I will wear it with a coordinating cardigan or perhaps a denim jacket. In this case, I'm wearing it with a hot pink RTW "Charming" cardigan from Talbots, RTW slacks, my Peter Beaton Sconset hat, and my Superega sneakers.

The fabric is a paisley cotton lawn which reminds me of a Lilly Pulitzer print. It's cool and comfortable and will make a nice addition to my wardrobe.

So, that's about it. When will I post again? Hmmm. We'll see!

~ Peggy