Cobalt and Lime: New Look 6301

Although I made this dress awhile ago, I needed to tweak the fit a bit.  Here is "Mehetabel" in the new, improved version:

You might be able to tell from her smile that Mehetabel likes this dress!  The fabric, an ITY knit, was purchased online several years ago from www.fabricmartfabrics.com. 

This is New Look 6301, the same pattern I used for this dress.  I decided to fully line this version, and thus eliminated the neck- and arm-bands.  Because I was a little worried that the neck and arms would gape, I sandwiched clear elastic between the fashion fabric and the lining--this keeps everything snug with no gaping issues. 

I didn't add any elastic to the waist, although the instructions call for a casing made from the seam allowances.  I added ten inches to each tie.  This way the belt can be wrapped around her 2+ times and helps define her waist.  Another benefit of a long tie is that it can be loosened after a big meal!

The photo, above, is what I got when I asked for a side view!  Here's a more sedate profile:

To line the skirt, I tried a method I saw on a Sandra Betzina video.  Although her method was for lining knit pants, I figured it would work on a skirt too.  This is what I did (and I pressed the various seams after each step):  I cut the tricot lining pieces 2 inches shorter than the skirt pieces.  I sewed one side seam on the skirt, and one on the lining.  Next, I sewed these two pieces right sides together at the hem.  Then I sewed the remaining side seam, starting at the top of the lining, going through the hem, and on to the top of the fashion fabric--this makes a long tube.  After pressing the skirt, I turned it right side out, matched the waist of the lining with the waist of the skirt, and pressed it again.  It worked perfectly!  I love the invisible (and easy hem) and the neatly done lining.  If you'd like to see the Sandra Betzina video, click here.

I'm going to make this pattern again; next time, I'll make 3/4 length sleeves and a flared skirt.  Also, since the front bodice pieces are cut in such a way that there's little stretch--but also no gaping--I will try cutting them on grain and see how that works out.

Orange Shift: Simplicity 1609

While Mehetabel was on her honeymoon, I decided to whip up an easy summer dress in the hopes it would be one for the win column.  Well-- Not so much. 

 

Simplicity 1609 is a Jiffy pattern re-issued from the 1960s.  I was feeling nostalgic, and that's probably why I went ahead with this pattern even though I had a few misgivings after seeing some other versions on the internet.  There were some adorable versions too, but alas, this isn't one of them!   I also was concerned that the neckline/shoulders would be awkward, but I did like the A-line shape.

I purchased the pattern, on sale, for 99 cents, and used a very old piece of fabric that I had previously used for bodice muslins for bridesmaid dresses.  So really, my only risk was in the time it took me to cut and sew this dress.

 

I knew there would be a possibility that the dress wouldn't fit well since Mehetabel was gone for several weeks and I couldn't fit it on her.  I did compare her measurements with the pattern pieces, and I wound up making one size larger than normal.  And it shows.  The dress is comfortable and cool, but...

 

I think it is just okay.  I'm sure if I tweaked the fit considerably, it would be fine, but I just don't think it is worth it when there are so many other patterns available!  It'll be fine for running errands on hot days.

I used a tangerine invisible zipper for the back closure.  All seam allowances were finished with the serger.

I had some orange bias seam tape on hand, so I used that to finish the hand-stitched hem.

Phooey.  I started this blog to track my sewing "hits and misses," and this is a miss.  Oh well.  I'll be back with a better looking dress soon!

 

I received several e-mails asking if there really was a live porcupine at Mehetabel's wedding.  Yes, indeed, there was, and here's photographic evidence, above.  The porcupine was very calm and spent most of her time munching on carrot sticks.

 

I have yet to see a live porcupine in my yard, but it is overrun with rock chucks, aka yellow bellied marmutes--they look like 24-lb pear-shaped squirrels.  And, they don't seem to care for weeds, but they love my lawn and just about every flower I've planted.  Varmints!  They are cute little beasts, prodigious diggers and breeders, and they aren't scared of me at all!





Simplicity/New Look Mash-Up: The Dream Vacation Dress

I've been absent from the blog for a bit--but I have a pretty good excuse.  My daughter, *Mehetabel, and her fiancé, *Aloysius, got married earlier this summer!  It was a fabulous evening (if I do say so myself).  The bride wore her favorite color:  pink!  I had the pleasure of making the dresses for the attendants and the officiant.   And, in addition to loads of family and friends, there was a porcupine in attendance! 

 

After the happy couple returned from several weeks in Kauai, Mehetabel and I took a shopping trip to Portland, Oregon.  One of our stops was at my new favorite store:  Mill End.  While we were there, Mehetabel spied this darling fabric and asked if I'd make her a dress.  The answer?  Yes!

 

 

The fabric is from Robert Kaufman, and it is called "Dream Vacation."  From a quick look online, it appears to be sold at many fabric stores.  It is cotton and is 44 inches wide. 

M likes Simplicity 2444 (who doesn't?)--particularly the bodice which I used for this dress.  But, since 2444's skirt is a fabric hog, I used the skirt from New Look 6910 (now OOP) because I knew I wouldn't have enough fabric for the skirt otherwise.  New Look 6910's skirt has pleats, but I simply gathered the skirt. 

 

To make this quilting cotton a bit heftier, I underlined the dress in batiste; it is still a light dress, but it is now thoroughly opaque and has a bit more body.

Simplicity 2444 calls for binding at the armscyes and a narrow facing at the neckline.  I am not crazy about binding and prefer fairly substantial facings instead (unless the dress is lined).  For my many iterations of this bodice, I've made one-piece neck/armscye facings for the front and back, interfaced them with lightweight fusible interfacing, and finished the edges on the serger.  Since the dress is underlined, it is easy to hand stitch the facings to the underlining.  

A bit cock-eyed on the dress form

There's another thing I do when sewing facings--and I am by no means the only one who does this, I know!  My facing pattern pieces are trimmed 3/16" at the armscye and neckline to help to keep the facings from rolling to the outside.

I used a black invisible zipper for the closure, and I finished all seams with bright yellow thread in the serger. 

Mehetabel (and I) have been to many of the locales shown on this dress, but I wanted to highlight two and place them center front on the bodice:  San Francisco (her birthplace) and Paris (a favorite city).

I used bright yellow bias tape and stitched the hem by hand.  On a side note, I told M that this was a double feature dress in that I watched Under the Tuscan Sun and The Fugitive while making it.  I like to listen to music or have streaming video playing in the background when I sew--and, I only play shows I've seen before because otherwise I get too distracted!

 

So tell me, what's new with you?  Do you like to watch TV/movies while sewing?

 

 

*Not their real names!