Inspiration to Reality (#2): Simplicity 1461 & Style Arc Barb

I recently learned of a clothing manufacturer, Jude Connally, and had a perusal of her website. Cute, classic clothes. I'm not planning on buying any as these are items I can easily make. But there was one section, the Holly Holden Collection, that caught my eye. Again, these are all pieces I could easily make at a fraction of the cost.  One look, in particular, was something I had planned to make anyway, but then I saw this one and decided to use it as inspiration. These two items retail at $188 each.

I think her hat might be the Wauwinet hat from Peter Beaton. I have this hat, and hoped to make a matching bow from fabric remnants. For the pants, I thought the Style Arc Barb Stretch Pants would do the trick. I've never made these for me, but I've made them many times for my daughter. And for the top, I have several tunic patterns, including the Tunic Bible, but I've been wanting to try Simplicity 1461 because it has cup sizes and I'm lazy!

Like my other Inspiration to Reality makes, I intended to use this look as a guidepost and not make an exact copy. In preparation for this look, I had purchased some deadstock ponte from Stonemountain and Daughter. I also had 3 yards of cotton batik in turquoise and lavender that I had gotten recently at a local quilt store, Going Batty. I was there for a meeting, and the owner offered us 30% off our purchases. It would've been rude not to buy something! If I had enough fabric left over, I planned to make a tie for my hat.

I used Simplicity 1461 and I didn't even make a muslin. I used the size 14 with the D cup, and lowered the bust apex by an inch. Unlike the inspiration, I didn't want the band collar as I thought it would be too hot during the summer. I lengthened the top by an inch in order to get a similar look, although I don't think I lengthened it enough. Other than those changes, I didn't make any other adjustments. 

The top has princess seams in front, a neckline facing, side slits, and bands at the sleeves. I sewed everything on my sewing machine and finished all seams on my serger. Actually, I did my usual thing: I finished all edges (without cutting anything off) before I sewed any seams. Then, after seams were sewn, I was able to press them open for a nice finish.

The hems were topstitched and I mitered the corners at the slide slits. 

I didn't have enough fabric left over to make a band and bow for my hat. So instead, I used a length of turquoise grosgrain that I had in my stash. Normally, I would wear such a tie with the bow at the back of the hat. However, I wanted to mimic the inspiration, so I moved the bow to the front.

The pants were made using a deadstock ponte from Stonemountain and Daughter. These were constructed entirely on the serger, but the hems were done by hand. The pants are super comfortable and they were easy to construct. I'm so glad to have added a pair of white ponte pants to my wardrobe; these will be very versatile.

I wore this outfit with my silver sandals. Holly Holden is wearing hers with black heeled slingback pumps, but I wasn't about to do that. Have I mentioned: I like comfort?! This new outfit will be perfect for an afternoon of board games at the clubhouse.

This is a simple outfit, but I'm delighted to use this cotton batik. While I like the top, I'm not sure I'll use the pattern again--one time might be enough. If I have a hankering to make another tunic, I have plenty of other patterns to try. 

Thank you Jude Connally and Holly Holden for the inspiration!

Have you copied any looks for your own wardrobe? Inquiring minds want to know!

Happy sewing ~ Peggy

A WEEK of Pietras? Oh My!

Hi all ~ 

I thought it might be fun to share a week of my handmade outfits. I always enjoy reading/watching when other bloggers/vloggers do them, so I decided to give it a try. I do exercise every day, but I haven't included those outfits in the mix, because they're pretty boring. As it turned out, I wore a different pair of the Closet Core Pietra Pants EVERY day (except for one day)! This wasn't planned.

On Monday, I had a committee meeting in the morning and an afternoon crafting meeting with like-minded crafters. I wore my pink floral seersucker Pietras. On top, I wore my McCall's 7757 (from 1995) in white double gauze to which I added a button placket and hot pink buttons. These were both made last summer.

On Tuesday, I went to a political meeting. It was a very hot day, and since the meeting was to be held outside, I made sure to wear my sunhat. This outfit was just right for my day.  I wore my Pietras in turquoise linen (bought at Stonemountain and Daughter). On top, I wore Simplicity 8752 in an underlined white cotton dobby.  I have blog posts about these pieces, here and here.

Wednesday was a busy day. I had my book club meeting in the morning. After that, I went to a luncheon at a local restaurant, The Twisted Fork, and that afternoon, I had my Creative Connections meeting with a group of other ladies who knit/crochet, sew garments, and/or quilt. I wanted to look put together, but be comfortable and appropriate for these three things. I wore my Closet Core Pietra Pants in a red/white Oscar De La Renta print I had purchased years ago at Mood. With these pants, I wore my Butterick 6848 shell in white ponte, and my Helen's Closet Blackwood Cardigan in a textured white double knit. I have a blog post about this outfit, here.

Thursday was a quiet day. I ran errands, went out to lunch, and I hosted my grandchildren in the afternoon. I wanted to wear clothing that allowed me to be flexible but still put together. I chose to wear the Pietras in fuchsia linen, and on top, I wore New Look 6650 in a rayon jersey from Mood. Put together but very comfortable!

On Friday, I went to a meeting. I re-wore the pink floral seersucker Pietras. On top, I wore my original Simplicity 8752 in pink jersey. I made both these pieces last summer.

On Saturday, I went to an ice cream social and a board game afternoon at the clubhouse. I wore Pietras made in a light coral linen blend, and a hacked version of the Zoey Blouse by Atelier Jupe. The top was made out of a sheer white cotton dobby. I wrote a blog post about this top, here. 

And finally, Sunday! I went to church and then a quilt show. I wore another pair of Pietra Pants in cobalt blue linen from Stonemountain and Daughter. The top is Butterick 6848 in a border print jersey that I bought ages ago from...somewhere--I just don't remember!  I made these pieces last summer.

And that'll do it! A week of my life all in outfits I made. This is the first time I've recorded such an exercise, and I found it quite fun, although I think I usually have more variety in my outfits! Looking at these photos, I realized that I went without my prosthetic breast in each one. Oh well. It's the real me!

I hope you enjoyed seeing how I wear some of the me-mades. I also hope you are doing well and spending some time at the sewing machine!

Happy sewing ~ Peggy 

Summer to Fall Transition: A Faux Jumpsuit

My daughter will be back in the classroom in a week or so. And around here, the temperature is hovering around 100 degrees Farenheit (37.78 Celsius), so while she wants to look polished and professional, she also wants to be comfortable. She's told me that her classrooms vary from freezing cold--too much air conditioning, to too hot--not enough air conditioning. So, I thought a few summer-weight pieces would be good for the beginning of the semester. The high heat could last well into October, or it could get pretty cool and blustery. Who knows!?

I knew my daughter liked the look of the Lane Pants by Sydney Graham and I was dying to give them a try. Going by my daughter's measurements, I first printed a size 8, but they looked way too big. I then printed the size 6, and while they fit her fine and have plenty of room, I could go down to a size 4. I added some inches in length and was going to make a fit muslin, but I decided to just go for it in some not-precious-to-me rayon challis lawn that I had gotten in a Sew Hayley Jane subscription box (sometime within the last couple years)--I think it's a Lady McElroy fabric, if memory serves.

For this first pair of Lane Pants, I put buttonholes in the waistband which uses both elastic and an optional drawstring. I used a ready-made drawstring which I cut in half and added a section of elastic--I did this because the drawstring would've been too short otherwise. I also omitted all the pocket options, because as I was cutting out the pants, I thought I might have enough to make a matching top if I kept the yardage that would've gone into the pockets.

So, other than a couple changes, those sewed up quickly and easily. I sewed everything on my sewing machine and finished all seams on my serger. The pants call for a 3" hem--which I did--and I topstiched them on my machine.

During a recent sale, I had purchased the Helen's Closet Ashton Top. This is a sleeveless top that can be finished with either bias tape or facings, a potential hem facing, and a choice of cup sizes. An expansion pack with a variety of sleeves can also be purchased. I did. 

I cut out the top with the facings and the hem facing (size 12 with a B-cup, no modifications). I was just able to get everything out of the challis remants, although I did piece the back facing and I cut it on the cross-grain. 

Super easy sew, no closures. I chose to use the facings, because I am a facings gal, and I used the burrito-method to install them. I've used this method multiple times, but if you've never used it, the instructions for the Ashton Top include clear directions for the burrito-method, and I highly recommend it.

This fabric was a little skittery to sew, but it created a great outfit. Soooooo comfy! And, being rayon, it'll work well in our very hot and arid climate. 

But since my daughter's university classrooms are unpredictable when it comes to air conditioning, I thought a completer piece was in order--which would also take this outfit into more autumnal weather. I was going to make her a cardigan in dusty pink, but then I held up a remnant of teal jersey to the top and it matched the teal flowers perfectly! A couple years ago, I had made my daughter the Helen's Closet Blackwood Cardigan out of this textured teal jersey that I had gotten in a Think Pink Box from Beyond the Pink Door. I think it is perfect with this outfit and eliminates my daughter's air conditioning concerns!

I've also been making clothes for my grandchildren, including Pete the Cat t-shirts, dinosaur t-shirts, Baby Shark t-shirts, and dresses for my granddaughter. It is so fun and satisfying to make things that are so appreciated!

Next up? I'm working on a tunic, Simplicity 1461, out of a cotton batik, and I also have more shirts and dresses cut out for my grandchildren. And I have a few ideas of back-to-work outfits for my daughter. I think I'll keep busy!

I hope you are doing well and finding time to create!

Happy sewing ~ Peggy

A New Top: Simplicity 8752

Simplicity 8752 is an out-of-print pattern that I first saw on a YouTube channel: Vivmom Sews. The pattern is for knits, and my first version, last year, was out of a cotton jersey:

The top is fine, but I decided I wanted to lower the bust apex by an inch and try it in a rayon challlis, which I did:

I took the measurement of the grown-on sleeve and drafted an addition that made it 3/4s--my preferred length. I also drafted a neck facing--the knit version has a neckband, but I didn't want that for the challis.

                                                                                 

Fast forward to this summer. I knew I definitely needed more white tops in my wardrobe. I had made one out of a dotted Swiss/dobby a couple weeks ago, but it is quite sheer, so I have to wear a cami under it. I decided to use the same fabric, but underline with a white cotton batiste just on the front and back bodice pieces. The sleeves and tie would be just the dotted Swiss. 

This whipped up easily, especially since I had already made all the alterations. I made no additional changes.

The fabric is a cotton from Mill End Fabrics in Reno, Nevada. I bought quite a bit of it, because of the aforementioned need for white tops! This top definitely has more body than the challis top I made last summer; if I make it again, I might take the side seams in a half inch.

Like I usually do, I serged the edges (without cutting anything off) before sewing the seams. That way, after I sewed a seam, I only had to press it open for it to have a finished seam.

The facings were sewn out of cotton batsiste, and I interfaced them with a super lightweight fusible, and finished them with the serger.

I hemmed the bodice and sleeves by hand. But other than that, this was a super easy make and it will be very versatile in my wardrobe. Perfect for summer, and it goes with a ton of items in my closet!

The pants are recent makes: yet another pair of Closet Core Pietras. Last year, I had made a pair in candy pink linen, but that pair hasn't held up well, so I've been on the hunt for pink linen. I haven't found exactly what I wanted, but during a recent sale at Stonemountain and Daughter, I found this Lady McElroy Cruise Washed Linen in fuchsia and decided to give it a whirl.

The fuchsia isn't as versatile in my wardrobe as the candy pink, but it goes with more things than I thought it would. For instance, at a meeting earlier this week, I wore these pants with a top I made last summer. The top is New Look 6650, and the fabric is a rayon jersey from Mood:

Next up? I think I'll make a muslin of the Lane Pants by Sydney Graham for my daughter. And, hopefully, a muslin of the Zadie Jumpsuit by Paper Theory for me!

I hope you are doing well and having fun sewing!

Happy sewing ~ Peggy

A Nell Blouse

I've made myself a new top using the Nell dress and top pattern by Tilly and the Buttons. I had gotten this pattern in a Sew Hayley Jane subscription box last year. I showed the pattern to my daughter, thinking she might like me to make it for her. Nope. She said, "Mom, it's soooo 90s," which made me laugh. But then I really thought about it and realized I had a dress just like this (I think it was a McCall's) in the 90s. It was made out of a light yellow linen with bunches of flowers. I wore that dress constantly on our European summer trip as it was perfect in the heat. I no longer have the dress, but if I could find a similar fabric, I could easily duplicate it!

So, I set about making a muslin or two or three, trying to get the fit right, learning in the process that I do not fit in the Tilly and the Buttons block very well: the block is too wide in the shoulders, too small in the bust, too short in the bodice, sleeves, and skirt, too boxy in the bodice, too tight in the biceps, the bust dart is too high, the back is too big, etc. You get the idea. I think I altered every single pattern piece.

Well, this version is by no means perfect--but it is much better than the original muslin! For this top, I used a Waverly cotton  that I saw at Walmart. I think it's pretty. And I do like pink!

The buttons were purchased at Mill End Fabrics in Reno, Nevada--eighty cents for six. 

This was a simple make--once I'd done a multitude of adjustments. Everything was done on my sewing machine and I finished all seams with my serger. I hand sewed the hems and tacked down the bottom of the button placket. And I had a first: I used my machine to sew on the buttons, and it was easy!

If I make another version, and I am might make a dress in rayon, I'll take out some of the volume under my bust and also from the back waist, and probably add a tie. I might add darts at the front and back waist seams. And I'll narrow the shoulders and the back a little more. I'm not sure, though. I might just make a pattern more suited to my figure.

Especially with those future changes needed, this was a just okay make. It'll be handy to have another lightweight woven top in a natural fiber in my wardrobe--perfect for our hot summer. And I will wear it, but it sure has a lot of flaws, and I don't care for it at all. In fact, I'm thinking of repurposing this top into a dress or top for my granddaughter. Oh well, I guess they can't all be winners! I am hopeful that my current project will fit me better.

I hope you are having fun at the sewing machine and enjoying the weather wherever you are!

Happy sewing ~ Peggy

Inspiration to Reality (#1)

A bit ago, a story came up on my Instagram account from Leanne of @thiswiththis. It showed Leanne in a pair of wide legged pants in either navy or black with a large floral print, a white cardigan, and a white top:

I took one look at this outfit and thought it'd be exactly the kind of thing I'd wear. So, I did what any sewist would do. No, I didn't buy new fabric--although I was tempted. Instead I went shopping in my stash. I didn't have anything like the navy or black trouser fabric, but I did have something reminiscent but with a red background and abstract white flowers (although maybe they're butterflies, bows, or windmills!). I thought this fabric would be perfect for my interpretation of the Instagram outfit, so I set to work.

The fabric was purchased at Mood 10-15 years ago! It is an Oscar De La Renta stretch woven, mostly cotton with a little bit of spandex. I'd call it a midweight with some texture. I thought it would be a little too heavy for a dress, but not heavy enough for straight pants, so that's why I hadn't made it up.

For these pants, I used a fairly recent go-to: the wide-legged, cropped Pietra Pants from Closet Core Patterns. These whipped up easily as I had just made them, blogged here. I made these just as before, including hand-sewing the hem.

For the cardigan, I had made the Helen's Closet Blackwood Cardigan last year, in a textured, white double knit from Mill End Fabrics. Such a versatile piece! I knew this would be perfect for my dupe.

Blackwood Cardigan, Pietra Pants, & Simplicity 8601

So, now all that was left was to make a shell/tank to complete the outfit. Yes, I have white sleeveless tops in my wardrobe, but, frankly, they're getting a little worse for wear. Time to make a new one! For this, I opted for Butterick 6848 which I have made a half dozen times. Here's a photo of me last year, wearing one that I made outof bamboo jersey:

For the sleeveless version, I have drafted a one-piece facing (front and back pieces), which I interfaced. It is applied using the burrito method which creates such a nice, clean finish. I also hem it by hand as I like the hem finish to match the neck/arm finish.

I didn't have any more of the textured, white knit that I had used for the cardigan, but on a recent trip to Mill End, I had seen another bolt. Why didn't I buy it then? Aargh! When I went back at a later date to buy it, the bolt was nowhere to be seen. Oh well. I figured I had some white cotton jersey in my stash, and that would be fine--except when I checked the jersey, it was slightly yellower than the cardigan. And that wouldn't do! But as luck would have it, I needed some buttons for a different project, so I went back to Mill End. While I was there, I took another spin down the white knit aisle. The original textured knit wasn't there, but I found a lightweight solid white ponte with same bright white color. I snapped up two yards, thinking I'd make this current top, and then eventually make a second top from the same pattern.

I like the outfit, but I should've worn my prosthetic (which I have because of my mastectomy) to even out the top over my bust. Oh well! I was comfortable, and wore the outfit to a 4th of July cocktail party. Just pretend the top fits better over my chest, which it does when I'm wearing the right undergarments! The pants are super comfy, and the cardigan goes with sooooo many pieces in my wardrobe.

So, my dupe isn't an exact duplicate, but my outfit was definitely inspired by the Instagram post.  I'm really pleased with it, and if will get plenty of wear!

I'm putting together another inspiration outfit. I recently saw Queen Mary of Denmark in a dress (I think) and jacket combo that I'd like to duplicate for my daughter. I'm just in the planning stages right now.

I hope you are doing well and getting some time to sew.

Happy sewing ~ Peggy