Butterick 5362 (from 1998) in Navy Floral

I've had Butterick 5362 for ages, but I had never used until this project. The pattern is from 1998, and it seems readily available on Etsy, Amazon, and eBay.

My daughter, the not-her-real-name Mehetabel, is nursing her baby (my grandson! 💖), and I am determined to make her some usable (and hopefully cute) clothing. Yes, things that button up the front are great choices, but I got to thinking that a dress that zips in front would be easy to use. That's where Butterick 5362 entered the picture. I was perusing my pattern stash and couldn't find exactly what I wanted, so when I saw this pattern I thought it would do.

The pattern is for a pullover dress without closures. Instead of cutting the front bodice on the fold, I added 5/8" seam allowance so that I could add a zipper. I knew that just putting a zipper in the bodice wouldn't be enough, so I also added a center front seam and seam allowance to the skirt.

I used a 22" invisible zipper down the front, and I'm happy to say it works well!

I decided not to use the included skirt pattern because I thought Mehetabel might prefer something looser in our 100 degree heat. The skirt is made up of two rectangles the width of the fabric--one width in back and one width (split down the center) in front. I then added a 12" (plus seam allowance and hem) tier to the dress--this was made with 3 widths. 

The bodice is self-lined. I used my usual trick of trimming the lining about 1/8" smaller at the neckline and armscyes. I used the burrito method to enclose the armscyes.

Ties were added at the bodice to help draw the dress in.

I, probably foolishly, hemmed the bottom tier by hand--because I felt like it and I like to keep my hands busy while watching TV. But after I'd hemmed about a third of it, I was questioning my sanity! Oh well. It looks nice!

The fabric is something I've had in my stash for ages. It was designed by Joan Kessler for Concord Fabrics. I don't know exactly when it is from, but I'd guess the late 80s/early 90s. It's cotton broadcloth, and washes and dries like a dream. I thought the fabric would work well for a hot weather dress.

Now that I've worked out the kinks on this pattern, I might make it again--I'm thinking a double gauze would be nice. I also just made a muslin of Jalie 2787--the Criss-Cross Top. I'd like to make one for myself, and I'd also like to make some for Mehetabel because the top is nursing-friendly. I also want to make some shorts and I'm thinking of trying the Closet Core Pietras.

I hope all is well with you and that you are sewing up a storm! ~ Peggy

Butterick 6085 in Robert Kaufman Floral Cotton Lawn

Hello, hello! I'm back (!) with a top for my daughter, Mehetabel. She is the mother of a 3-month old boy--my first grandchild!--and she is in need of suitable/comfortable clothes for breastfeeding. I've raided my own closet for button-up tops for her to borrow, but I thought I'd make something for her. I remember feeling a bit dowdy and uninspired in my clothing choices back when I was in her position, so I thought an accessible top in a pretty fabric might do the trick. Plus, it's starting to get pretty hot here in the high desert, so why not something sleeveless and cool?

First, I tried the Melody Dolman from Love Notions. I just have to do the buttons and buttonholes on that one. I also tried a pattern from my stash: Butterick 6085. This pattern is now out of print--it was published in 2001--but it was in the catalog for many years. It's a classic button up top with a camp-style collar and various options. To see if this would work for Mehetabel, I made up a sleeveless version with darts at the bust. It is a little large, but I wanted to accommodate the pumping paraphernalia. 

The fabric is a Robert Kaufman cotton lawn in a pretty blues/teals/turquoise floral print, purchased from Fabric.com.  I didn't have any coordinating buttons in my stash, so I picked up some white ones at a local store.

I should've straightened the top before I snapped the photo!

The instructions have you clip into the seam allowance on the middle of the collar facing to enclose the neck seam. I've had success with this method multiple times, but I thought I'd try something else. I made a facing piece for the back neckline. I had limited success with this. I interfaced the facing (probably a mistake) and I had difficulty getting the facing to lay flat--but it's good enough.  I think I'll go back to the original method.

The only other change I made was to add three inches in length.

The interfacing I used for the facings and collar is pretty crisp; if I had had something lighter on hand, that's what I would've preferred. 

I thought I'd try using my sewing machine to sew on the buttons as I'd never done that before. I successfully did one, but it was too difficult to continue. I wound up buying a foot specifically for attaching buttons, but by that time, I'd hand-sewn the buttons on the top.

This is a casual top that'll work well with a pair of shorts or jeans. I'll see if she likes this size, or if she feels it is too roomy.

The armsyces were finished with store-bought bias tape. I was planning to make some from the fabric, but since I had a coordinating color on hand, I went with it!

Right now, I'm working on a dress for my daughter using another out-of-print pattern. I've created a center-front seam and am inserting an invisible zip down the front. I'm hoping this will be breast-feeding friendly. We'll see! It might be about time to sew an old favorite which won't be so much of a question mark!

Anywho, that's all for me. I hope you are well and sewing up a storm! ~ Peggy

A Lilly Knock-Off?

Well, I've had an eventful few months. But now I'm back and rarin' to go! This post will mark a turning point for me in that I will be featured in this post. In the past, the majority of my posts have featured my daughter, the not-her-real-name Mehetabel. But don't worry; there will be plenty of new Mom-made goodies for Mehetabel! This time, I'm sticking my toes in the water, ready for a day out, sans makeup.

I actually made this top for my daughter a few years ago, but it was never something she cared for so it's been sitting in the time-out pile for awhile. I loved the fabric, so I decided to re-vamp it for myself. But actually, all I had to do was cut off the hem and raise it by about three inches. Easy-peasy. 

I eliminated the center-front seam in the yoke and the center slit. The yoke was cut on the fold. Other than those tiny changes, nothing else was done to the pattern.

The fabric was purchased several years ago from Joann, so I doubt it is in stock any longer. It was a relatively easy sew, just a little fiddly putting in the yoke. I made self-bias binding for the armscyes and (re)hemmed it by hand.

You might recognize the fabric from this out-of-print pattern envelope:

The pattern I used is out-of-print McCall's 7128 and since I prefer some upper arm coverage, I will wear it with a coordinating cardigan or perhaps a denim jacket. In this case, I'm wearing it with a hot pink RTW "Charming" cardigan from Talbots, RTW slacks, my Peter Beaton Sconset hat, and my Superega sneakers.

The fabric is a paisley cotton lawn which reminds me of a Lilly Pulitzer print. It's cool and comfortable and will make a nice addition to my wardrobe.

So, that's about it. When will I post again? Hmmm. We'll see!

~ Peggy

A Pants Hack

Hello there! A recent post was about some life changes and my upcoming sewing plans. Well, speaking of life changes(!), as you might know, I've had to scrap the plans for my daughter's back-to-the-classroom wardrobe! Why? Well, for one of the best reasons possible. She and her husband are expecting their first child! I'm going to be a grandmother--and I'm still wrapping my head around that.

I am so happy for them. They will be wonderful parents and I want to do what I can to support them. I'm thinking babysitting, meal prep, hugs, whatever--but particularly sewing! Now, as you may know, Mehetabel (my not-her-real-name daughter) is 6 feet tall, and regular patterns always need to be adjusted. Throw pregnancy into the mix, and that adds another challenge. A challenge, yes, but not insurmountable! 

When they first talked about trying to get pregnant, I looked around for maternity patterns. There was nothing in the big four books! I found some current, independent patterns, and made some purchases. I also looked at eBay, Etsy, etc., to look for out-of-print and/or vintage-ish patterns, and made some more purchases. I didn't know what time of year all this would hopefully happen, but now I do: mostly winter. 

I should also mention that I still have many of the patterns I used when I was pregnant in the early-80s. I doubt Mehetabel would want any of those--including Nolan Miller's Linda Evans/Dynasty maternity patterns. I was also pregnant in a much warmer climate and primarily during the spring and summer, so our clothing needs were and are completely different.

On YouTube, several people have videos about how to hack RTW jeans for pregnancy. What a brilliant idea! I immediately bought a pair of Levi's on sale in Mehetabel's size--I could not find any RTW maternity jeans online that would be long enough, so this hack seemed like the answer.  Instead of winging it, I decided to use the stomach panel pattern pieces from a recently purchased older pattern: Butterick 5964. The rather cryptic information on the back of the pattern said to purchase fabric with 15% lycra/spandex for the stomach panel which wasn't easy to find. I did find some--only in gray--at Surge Fabrics online. I quickly bought some and awaited my package.

I was nervous about cutting into the jeans, but nothing ventured, nothing gained. I used the pattern pieces to trace out the area to be removed, and used the stomach panel pieces to cut out the 15% spandex tummy piece. 

Sewing was a breeze. I sewed the panel piece on my regular machine using a stretch stitch, and finished the seams with the serger. I considered doubling the fabric as shown in one of the videos, but I was worried that that would make the garment too hot. So, using the pattern's instructions, I finished off the top of the panel but with my coverstitch rather than the regular stitch of the instructions. By the way, the panel fabric has 50 UPF protection, so her stomach won't get burned!

This was a super quick and easy project. The jeans fit Mehetabel well, and she's pleased with them. Although, if I make them again, I will probably start the tummy panel a little higher up and leave a little more of the front fly. Who knows if these jeans fit her throughout the pregnancy, but we'll find out!

Next up, I'm either going to make some gray jeans for me, or pants--or--a top--for Mehetabel. Definitely on the list: more maternity clothes. Who knows what I'll make?!

Thank you for your kind comments following my recent news. I am recovering very well and am looking forward to new challenges.

Until next time ~ Grammy Peggy

Conference Capsule: A Dress with a Difference!

Well, I'm back. I thought I would be back sooner, but life.  It's all good. Wonderful, in fact. In my last post, I'd written about sewing some outfits for my daughter to wear on hot fall days and nights. My daughter read that post, and she mentioned that I might need to re-think the whole concept. Hmmm. I'll wait a bit before I tell you why. You'll probably guess.

She did need some new clothes for a conference she was attending in Idaho. The other dresses I made were no longer comfortable, so I set out to make something appropriate for her.

I thought about a lot of different options, like the Tilly and the Buttons Indigo Dress, the Love Notions Pemberley Dress, and the Pattern Emporium Every Day's a Weekend Dress. But then I decided just to use the same bodice mash-up I'd used before, blogged here and here. But this time, I cut 3 inches off the length of the bodice. Instead of the flared skirt with a fitted waist I'd used before, I made two rectangles at 26" x 35" for the skirt, and I made smaller and shorter bodice ties.

The bodice was underlined with a mystery knit lining. I added stay tape to the shoulders and a stretch stitch on the seams which were then finished with the serger. The hems were done on the coverstitch machine. I added facings to the neckline to finish it, and they were hand sewn to the underlining.

Here's the finished garment--and it's a success! So after whipping up this first version out of this "Famous Dress Designer" polka dot ITY fabric from Fabricmart Fabrics, I wanted to make another one out of a pretty floral border print ITY from fabric.com. But I ran out of time!

So, do you know why she nixed my earlier wardrobe plans? That's right. She's expecting a baby boy in the spring! She's in her second trimester now. She's got her energy back and is thriving. I am so happy for her and Aloysius. They'll be wonderful parents!

Now you know why the plans have changed. Drastically. I have some maternity patterns in my stash, including ones I used in the 80s. However, I was heavily pregnant in the very hot summer, and her biggest times will be in the snowy winter and early spring. Also, the patterns I used were big and billowy--as things were at the time. Shoulder pads? No problem! Want to dress like a pregnant Princess Di? Sure! But those patterns just don't cut it for the here and now. And I knew Mehetabel wouldn't need a full-term maternity dress for the conference because while her other dresses were too snug in the tummy, she wasn't ready for a big waistline or dipping front hem. This change to the previous conference pattern worked just fine for her then 4 month belly.

Here she is in situ at the conference about a month ago:

That's it for now. Thank you for reading and thank you for your kind words on my last post. I really do hope to be back on the blog soon! Take care ~ Peggy

A New Top for Carmelita

Hello there! I hope you are staying well. I'm on a mini-roll right now, sewing-wise. After the Work from Home Module Sew Along, I dithered about what to do next. I often dither. I annoy myself with my dithering. I knew, though, that I wanted to make a top for my daughter's mother-in-law, Carmelita. Carmelita had recently purchased some pants and a coordinating top from J.Jill; the pants fit well but she hated the top. Going into the store to look for something else was not in the cards (thank you, pandemic), so I offered to make her a top if we could find coordinating fabric.

We were in luck. On the Girl Charlee website, I found two cotton/lycra possibilities. We decided to order both fabrics hoping at least one would work, but both fabrics looked great with the pants. At a later date, I'll make her a top for cooler weather with the other, slightly darker, fabric.

We were both visiting our kids, Mehetabel and Aloysius, and I asked Mehetabel if Carmelita could try on a top (unblogged) that I'd made her. I wanted to check the fit on Carmelita. The top is the Love Notions Classic Tee, two of which are blogged here and here. The one she tried on had 3/4 sleeves and a V-neck. The shirt fit well along the shoulders, neck,  and arms, but was a bit too snug on the torso.

So, I re-printed the top, choosing the Medium and Large layers. After taping the PDF (you know how I love doing that), I cut the top on the Medium lines for the sleeves, shoulders, and neckline; and I cut the bodice on the Large cutting lines. It's not that big a difference, but it gives her a little more room in that region.

The top went together without a hitch. I reinforced the shoulders with fusible interfacing. The seams were sewn with a stretch stitch. The seam allowances were trimmed with the serger, and the hems and neckline were finished with the coverstitch.

She likes the top and I think she looks great! Huzzah!

And now, a parting shot. CJ,  the assistant to my design assistant, is clearly being overworked:

The Work from Home Module Sew Along: Putting It All Together!

 

This work from home module got me back into the studio, and as a bonus, it gave my daughter, Mehetabel, some great pieces to incorporate into her wardrobe. For this module, I wanted tops with three distinct necklines: turtleneck, V-neck with a tie, and a crewneck. I also didn't focus too much on the bottoms because she'd already told me she'd be wearing yoga pants and slippers to work from home! When things open up again, she'll wear more formal bottoms in the classroom, like the Barb Stretch Pants I blogged here.

For the topper, I chose the Helen's Closet Blackwood Cardigan, made from Telio sweater knit in navy. This is my third Blackwood Cardigan. It's a winner! The cardigans are blogged here, and here, and here.

I knew a navy cardigan would be super useful in Mehetabel's wardrobe. And I knew the navy Jalie Eleonores I'd made about four years ago, first pairs blogged here, along with some favorite Levi's would be perfect for the bottoms. For the tops, I chose three comfortable knits from Stylemaker Fabrics in prints.

The first top I made was the Itch to Stitch Hepburn Turtleneck which was the only new-to-me pattern I used. This pattern also qualifies for my pattern challenge, blogged here. The fabric is cotton/lycra jersey with mustard, navy, and ivory flowers. The top is blogged here.

The second top I made was the Jalie Scarf-Collar Top, blogged here. I made this one from a geode print in burgundy, navy, and white. The fabric is a super soft rayon/lycra jersey. I'll bet Mehetabel will wear this one the most.

The third top I made was the Love Notions Classic Tee with the long sleeve and crewneck options. I love this cheerful coral print with flowers and ladybugs in white and navy. This is the most casual of the three tops but  it'll be fine on Zoom calls. This top is blogged here. 

She's wearing the coral top with her navy Jalie Eleonores.

So there you have it! One cardigan, three tops, and two pairs of pants = three great Zoom looks. Now I think I'll have to do another module!