Elegant in Ivory: New Look 6301

Mehetabel has an upcoming event for which she needs a new dress.  The guidelines?  It must be comfortable, it must be flattering, it must be opaque (no slips, please!), and it must be ivory.  Well, the attitude here on the Bespokeabilty factory floor is definitely can do! 

 

 

Item 1:  It must be comfortable.  Check!  What could be more comfortable than a soft rayon lycra double knit?  Purchased from Stonemountain and Daughter. 

Item 2:  It must be flattering.  Check!  I think Mehetabel looks great in this surplice style (New Look 6301).  The neckline is very flattering, and because the dress is a mock-wrap, she won't need to worry about skirt malfunctions!

 

Item 3:  It must be opaque.  Check!  The bodice and skirt pieces were underlined with white swimsuit lining.  This dress has some heft, and no slip is needed.  I also love that the underlining makes it so there isn't any shadowing at the seams and hem.  

 

Item 4:  It must be ivory.  Check!  I was a little worried that this winter white double knit might be too creamy, but Mehetabel loves it. 

 

 

In addition to the underlining, I added ten inches in length to the ties, and I omitted the elastic at the waist.  The seam allowances of the neck and arm bands are tacked to the underlining so they won't flip outward.  When I sew this pattern again, I think I will trim the shoulder width a bit.

 

I let the skirt hang for 24 hours before hemming it--and I'm glad I did, because it grew a bit overnight!

 

Overall, I'd say this is another one for the win column!  The disaster I mentioned in the last post was another version of this dress--one that I tried to line rather than underline.  Clearly, I didn't think that one through!  I also tried to use clear elastic at the waist and in place of the arm and neck bands.  Ugh!  What a mess.  That stuff is not for me.

Season-Spanning Separates

I mentioned in my first post that I was going to create some outfits for Mehetabel that she could wear with her brown boots.  Well, I've made quite a few now, but I haven't taken pictures yet.  This outfit is one that I made for her "Brown Wardrobe," and it will be great with tights, boots, and a cardy during the winter, but now in spring, it's perfect with some wedges or pumps. 

 

Note: The top is more of a grayish blue than these photos show.

  

Mehetabel looks great in pencil skirts, but flared skirts are more comfortable and give her freedom of movement.  This is something she's told me is important to her during her workday; she's always on the go, moving from classroom to classroom, and into frequent parent/student IEP meetings.  Straight skirts in woven fabrics tend to ride up the thighs when in a seated position (although they look great when standing still).  She wants the focus on the student's educational needs rather than her legs!

 

So, with these guidelines in mind, I whipped up some flared skirts.  This one is in a silky polyester from Hancock.  On its own, it is perfect for a blouse, but it is too light for a skirt expected to span the seasons.  To remedy that, I underlined it in batiste.  I love the way this fabric feels now; it is much more substantial.

 

The pattern is vintage Vogue 7444, from about 1979 or 1980.  I have made this view and the straight skirt version dozens of times for both Mehetabel and me.  Mehetabel sometimes wears my 1980s versions which are, sniff, too tight on me now.  This version is size 14, and I added about 4 inches to the length.



The construction of this skirt is easy.  After I underlined the skirt pieces, the seam allowances were finished on the serger.  I used an invisible zipper (center back), interfaced the waistband, and used a large hook and eye for the waistband closure.  The hem was hand-sewn after I attached bias tape to the hem edge.  The waistband was also finished by hand. 

 

The top is another old favorite:  New Look 6150.  I've made this view a handful of times.  This iteration is in a grayish blue mystery knit from Fabrix in San Francisco.  I think it cost about $2 per yard.  It is slinky and silky; Mehetabel says it feels like she's wearing a jammie top!  The top was constructed on my regular sewing machine, and I used the serger to trim and finish all seam allowances.  The shoulder seams are reinforced with twill tape.  I used my cover stitch machine to finish the hems and neckline.

 

The photo, below, is a better representation of the color:

All in all, this outfit is a success!  Yay!  Unfortunately, my most recent project is a failure.  I'll leave you with a photo of this darned thing.  I spent 9 hours on it.  I don't know why it took me so long.  Everything went wrong, but most of the problems were because I was trying to "improve" the pattern, I used a horrible lining fabric, and my application of clear elastic was a disaster.  Oh well.  I guess the failures help one to appreciate the successes that much more!

When is a Pencil Skirt not a Pencil Skirt?

The answer?  When it's a pencil dress!

 



 

The last time I was in Berkeley, I spent a fair amount of time at one of my favorite fabric stores: Stonemountain and Daughter.  One of the things I'd been searching for was a lemon-print fabric with a white background to create a Kate Spade-inspired dress which I'd pinned.  Well, no luck with the lemons, but as I was perusing the cotton novelty prints, I spied this pencil fabric.  I thought it would make an adorable fit and flare dress.  I also figured that my daughter, the previously mentioned not-her-real-name Mehetabel, would enjoy such a dress, being a high school teacher and all.  I could picture her wearing it with a black patent belt and shoes, and a black cardigan. 

 

When I checked in with Mehetabel, she saw the fabric, expressed delight, and asked if by any chance I'd consider making a dress for her!  So, with all systems go, I headed home to work on the dress.

 

 

For the pattern, I used Simplicity 2444.  I've made this dress (or used the bodice) about seven times I think.  Fitting issues were worked out long ago, so I was able to get right to the fun part. 

 

To give the fabric some heft as well as to stave off wrinkles and provide opacity, I underlined each piece with poly/cotton broadcloth.  In hindsight, I wish I had used batiste, but the broadcloth was what I had on hand.  After pre-treating the fabric, I didn't have enough to cut out the dress on the straight-of-grain.  We are a tall people; considerable length had been added to the bodice and skirt pattern pieces.  So, I cut the pieces on the cross-grain which allowed me to cut the skirt front on the center fold instead of in two pieces.  The underlining was cut on the straight-of-grain, and the combo of that with the cross-grain fashion fabric made it quite sturdy. 

 

This pattern, very popular in the blogosphere, sews up quickly and easily.  As I have done in the past, I made a one-piece facing (armscye and neckline) for the front and one for the back which were sewn in place and then hand-stitched to the underlining.  For the hem, I used white bias tape to finish it and hand-sewed it to the underlining.  For the closure, I used an invisible zipper.

 

Mehetabel tried on the dress the day before yesterday and loved it!  She wore it to work the next day.  The photo, below, is in her classroom.  She received many compliments and some pencil-pun comments as well (you look sharp; you're making a fine point..., etc.).

To confess, this is not the first time Mehetabel and I have collaborated on a themed dress.  At her last school (in another state), the mascot was a pirate, in honor of Sir Francis Drake.  We found pirate ship fabric on www.fabric.com, and a dress was born (New Look 6910).  Here she is:

 

 

Finally, I've found yet another themed fabric that I think will make a great dress.  This trimester, Mehetabel, a special education teacher, is also co-teaching freshman science.  I found this fabric at Mill End in the Portland, Oregon area.  I'd better get cracking on this dress because school ends soon!

 

Mehetabel Feathers Her Nest

Mehetabel and her fiancé, Aloysius (also not his real name), are in the process of furnishing their new home.  You see, I’m not the only one who recently relocated to Bend, Oregon; Mehetabel and Aloysius led the way, followed by his mother, my parents, and finally, me.  Sort of like the Beverly Hillbillies, except instead of a cement pond, there’s a gorgeous and glorious river that runs through the town.  We are all in Bend, but in four different homes in different parts of the town.  For the first time in memory, we can get together at the drop of a hat; the longest distance between houses is perhaps a ten minute drive.

 

So, Mehetabel and Aloysius recently took delivery of a gorgeous dark chocolate leather couch from Pottery Barn.  To add some color and additional comfort, Mehetabel wanted to try her hand at making throw pillows and asked if I’d help.  Sure!  So, today, we spent a delightful few hours in my studio measuring, cutting, and sewing the first in a series of covers for the pillow forms she’s purchased from Joann’s.

Since it has been a while since she’s tackled a home décor sewing project, I sent her a link to the Craftsy class, "Sewing Studio with Diana Rupp.”  Lesson two provides great step-by-step instructions on making an envelope pillow cover with French seams.  I watched it too; it’s inspired me to make a few pillows for my living room, although I’m still waiting for my fabric order to arrive.

 

Mehetabel took a cue from this Pottery Barn catalog when selecting her fabrics:

 

She wanted a mix of patterns and colors, so she first selected a fabric with  all the colors she’d like to incorporate to use as her jumping off point; this is the fabric she chose to sew first, as shown below.  Next, she selected a variety of prints (paisleys, geometrics, florals, etc.), plus several sizes of pillow forms.  With my ample stock of thread* and other notions, she didn’t need to make any other purchases. 

 

*One of Mehetabel’s Christmas presents to me was this 80-spool Gütermann thread tower!  I love it!

Mehetabel masters the machine

 



Sewing is fun!

Inserting the form into the case.  Messy stash closet!

Mehetabel used 3/4” French seams but otherwise followed the instructions from the Craftsy class.  This first pillow is 24" by 24".  The front was cut as a 25" square, and the two back sections which create the envelope are 25" by 18" each.  1" double fold hems were sewn along the two center back sections and then overlapped onto the front piece.  The first part of the French seam was sewn in one go around the entire square at 3/8", pressed, trimmed, and flipped to sew finish the French seam with another 3/8" seam. 

Here is the proud designer and creator with the finished product:

And here is the pillow in its new home:

The cover was extremely easy to make, and most importantly, Mehetabel loves it!  I have no doubt that Aloysius will love it as well. 

This was a fun and very satisfying project.  I suspect Mehetabel will be back tomorrow to make more pillows for her new couch!

My First Post - Introduction and an Outfit

Greetings!  My name is Peggy and I love to sew (and write, read, go for walks, cook, entertain, etc.)  The launch of this blog signifies several new beginnings for me, including my recent relocation to Bend, Oregon, after 34 years in Marin County, California.  I love a fresh start; anything is possible.

My primary focus for this blog will be the apparel I make for my adult daughter, Mehetabel (not her real name) and for me.  I occasionally sew for others as well--and I'll be making the bridesmaids' dresses for Mehetabel's upcoming wedding.  Home dec sewing happens sometimes, too, although it is not my favorite.

What am I working on now?  Well, Mehetabel--a high school special education teacher who also team-teaches algebra and English--has requested some outfits to wear with her new brown suede boots.  No problem, I thought.  Then I looked at my stash.  Nary a brown item amongst the stacks.  What's a gal to do?  Orders were quickly placed to a variety of online fabric stores as well as quick trips to Hancock's and Joann's.  To make a long story slightly shorter, I did my bit for the economy.

Mehetabel left it up to me (pretty much) to select styles for her new brown wardrobe, but she did mention that she loves the fit and design of New Look 6150's bateau neckline top with 3/4 length sleeves.  She looks fantastic in a pencil skirt, and that would be great if only she stood still all day!  She's always on the go: parent/student/administrator meetings, changing classrooms, etc.  After some discussion, she decided that mid-calf length A-line skirts would work best with the NL 6150.  With those details settled, I got to work.

My first skirt was View B from Vogue 7444 (oop).  I've used this pattern for years, and I've lost count of the number of skirts I've made either for me or for Mehetabel.

 

For the fabric, I used this faux suede from Hancock:

 

The skirt has an ivory lining, invisible zipper, and hand sewn blind hem.  Here's the skirt awaiting a final press:

 

 

I chose this fabric for the first project because Mehetabel already has a New Look 6150 in tarragon double knit that will work beautifully with the paisley.  

 

I don't have a photo of the outfit on her yet, but I will post one soon. 

 

Next up:  a teal/brown print 6150 with a brown double knit straight skirt (I figure she'll like this straight skirt because there's plenty of stretch).

 

Thanks for joining me on my sewing journey.  ~ Peggy