A New Top: Simplicity 8752

Simplicity 8752 is an out-of-print pattern that I first saw on a YouTube channel: Vivmom Sews. The pattern is for knits, and my first version, last year, was out of a cotton jersey:

The top is fine, but I decided I wanted to lower the bust apex by an inch and try it in a rayon challlis, which I did:

I took the measurement of the grown-on sleeve and drafted an addition that made it 3/4s--my preferred length. I also drafted a neck facing--the knit version has a neckband, but I didn't want that for the challis.

                                                                                 

Fast forward to this summer. I knew I definitely needed more white tops in my wardrobe. I had made one out of a dotted Swiss/dobby a couple weeks ago, but it is quite sheer, so I have to wear a cami under it. I decided to use the same fabric, but underline with a white cotton batiste just on the front and back bodice pieces. The sleeves and tie would be just the dotted Swiss. 

This whipped up easily, especially since I had already made all the alterations. I made no additional changes.

The fabric is a cotton from Mill End Fabrics in Reno, Nevada. I bought quite a bit of it, because of the aforementioned need for white tops! This top definitely has more body than the challis top I made last summer; if I make it again, I might take the side seams in a half inch.

Like I usually do, I serged the edges (without cutting anything off) before sewing the seams. That way, after I sewed a seam, I only had to press it open for it to have a finished seam.

The facings were sewn out of cotton batsiste, and I interfaced them with a super lightweight fusible, and finished them with the serger.

I hemmed the bodice and sleeves by hand. But other than that, this was a super easy make and it will be very versatile in my wardrobe. Perfect for summer, and it goes with a ton of items in my closet!

The pants are recent makes: yet another pair of Closet Core Pietras. Last year, I had made a pair in candy pink linen, but that pair hasn't held up well, so I've been on the hunt for pink linen. I haven't found exactly what I wanted, but during a recent sale at Stonemountain and Daughter, I found this Lady McElroy Cruise Washed Linen in fuchsia and decided to give it a whirl.

The fuchsia isn't as versatile in my wardrobe as the candy pink, but it goes with more things than I thought it would. For instance, at a meeting earlier this week, I wore these pants with a top I made last summer. The top is New Look 6650, and the fabric is a rayon jersey from Mood:

Next up? I think I'll make a muslin of the Lane Pants by Sydney Graham for my daughter. And, hopefully, a muslin of the Zadie Jumpsuit by Paper Theory for me!

I hope you are doing well and having fun sewing!

Happy sewing ~ Peggy

A Nell Blouse

I've made myself a new top using the Nell dress and top pattern by Tilly and the Buttons. I had gotten this pattern in a Sew Hayley Jane subscription box last year. I showed the pattern to my daughter, thinking she might like me to make it for her. Nope. She said, "Mom, it's soooo 90s," which made me laugh. But then I really thought about it and realized I had a dress just like this (I think it was a McCall's) in the 90s. It was made out of a light yellow linen with bunches of flowers. I wore that dress constantly on our European summer trip as it was perfect in the heat. I no longer have the dress, but if I could find a similar fabric, I could easily duplicate it!

So, I set about making a muslin or two or three, trying to get the fit right, learning in the process that I do not fit in the Tilly and the Buttons block very well: the block is too wide in the shoulders, too small in the bust, too short in the bodice, sleeves, and skirt, too boxy in the bodice, too tight in the biceps, the bust dart is too high, the back is too big, etc. You get the idea. I think I altered every single pattern piece.

Well, this version is by no means perfect--but it is much better than the original muslin! For this top, I used a Waverly cotton  that I saw at Walmart. I think it's pretty. And I do like pink!

The buttons were purchased at Mill End Fabrics in Reno, Nevada--eighty cents for six. 

This was a simple make--once I'd done a multitude of adjustments. Everything was done on my sewing machine and I finished all seams with my serger. I hand sewed the hems and tacked down the bottom of the button placket. And I had a first: I used my machine to sew on the buttons, and it was easy!

If I make another version, and I am might make a dress in rayon, I'll take out some of the volume under my bust and also from the back waist, and probably add a tie. I might add darts at the front and back waist seams. And I'll narrow the shoulders and the back a little more. I'm not sure, though. I might just make a pattern more suited to my figure.

Especially with those future changes needed, this was a just okay make. It'll be handy to have another lightweight woven top in a natural fiber in my wardrobe--perfect for our hot summer. And I will wear it, but it sure has a lot of flaws, and I don't care for it at all. In fact, I'm thinking of repurposing this top into a dress or top for my granddaughter. Oh well, I guess they can't all be winners! I am hopeful that my current project will fit me better.

I hope you are having fun at the sewing machine and enjoying the weather wherever you are!

Happy sewing ~ Peggy

Inspiration to Reality (#1)

A bit ago, a story came up on my Instagram account from Leanne of @thiswiththis. It showed Leanne in a pair of wide legged pants in either navy or black with a large floral print, a white cardigan, and a white top:

I took one look at this outfit and thought it'd be exactly the kind of thing I'd wear. So, I did what any sewist would do. No, I didn't buy new fabric--although I was tempted. Instead I went shopping in my stash. I didn't have anything like the navy or black trouser fabric, but I did have something reminiscent but with a red background and abstract white flowers (although maybe they're butterflies, bows, or windmills!). I thought this fabric would be perfect for my interpretation of the Instagram outfit, so I set to work.

The fabric was purchased at Mood 10-15 years ago! It is an Oscar De La Renta stretch woven, mostly cotton with a little bit of spandex. I'd call it a midweight with some texture. I thought it would be a little too heavy for a dress, but not heavy enough for straight pants, so that's why I hadn't made it up.

For these pants, I used a fairly recent go-to: the wide-legged, cropped Pietra Pants from Closet Core Patterns. These whipped up easily as I had just made them, blogged here. I made these just as before, including hand-sewing the hem.

For the cardigan, I had made the Helen's Closet Blackwood Cardigan last year, in a textured, white double knit from Mill End Fabrics. Such a versatile piece! I knew this would be perfect for my dupe.

Blackwood Cardigan, Pietra Pants, & Simplicity 8601

So, now all that was left was to make a shell/tank to complete the outfit. Yes, I have white sleeveless tops in my wardrobe, but, frankly, they're getting a little worse for wear. Time to make a new one! For this, I opted for Butterick 6848 which I have made a half dozen times. Here's a photo of me last year, wearing one that I made outof bamboo jersey:

For the sleeveless version, I have drafted a one-piece facing (front and back pieces), which I interfaced. It is applied using the burrito method which creates such a nice, clean finish. I also hem it by hand as I like the hem finish to match the neck/arm finish.

I didn't have any more of the textured, white knit that I had used for the cardigan, but on a recent trip to Mill End, I had seen another bolt. Why didn't I buy it then? Aargh! When I went back at a later date to buy it, the bolt was nowhere to be seen. Oh well. I figured I had some white cotton jersey in my stash, and that would be fine--except when I checked the jersey, it was slightly yellower than the cardigan. And that wouldn't do! But as luck would have it, I needed some buttons for a different project, so I went back to Mill End. While I was there, I took another spin down the white knit aisle. The original textured knit wasn't there, but I found a lightweight solid white ponte with same bright white color. I snapped up two yards, thinking I'd make this current top, and then eventually make a second top from the same pattern.

I like the outfit, but I should've worn my prosthetic (which I have because of my mastectomy) to even out the top over my bust. Oh well! I was comfortable, and wore the outfit to a 4th of July cocktail party. Just pretend the top fits better over my chest, which it does when I'm wearing the right undergarments! The pants are super comfy, and the cardigan goes with sooooo many pieces in my wardrobe.

So, my dupe isn't an exact duplicate, but my outfit was definitely inspired by the Instagram post.  I'm really pleased with it, and if will get plenty of wear!

I'm putting together another inspiration outfit. I recently saw Queen Mary of Denmark in a dress (I think) and jacket combo that I'd like to duplicate for my daughter. I'm just in the planning stages right now.

I hope you are doing well and getting some time to sew.

Happy sewing ~ Peggy

Summer Outfits for a Little Cutie!

Granddaughter wearing McCall's 8416, which she accessorized with a bike helmet & Mom's Crocs

My daughter and her family recently went on a camping trip. They had lots of fun. My granddaughter, who is 1 1/2, likes to run everywhere. Unfortunately, she's at an age where she often falls down. Being out in the woods on this camping trip, my daughter thought it might be a good idea to get some lightweight woven pants so my granddaughter would have a layer of fabric between her and the ground.

When she mentioned this to me, I went into research mode. Immediately, I found woven joggers on Waves and Wild, Little Lizard King, and Patterns for Pirates. I texted these three patterns to my daughter. She said these were just what she was looking for but had no preference between these patterns.

I chose the Uptown Joggers from Patterns for Pirates ( these also come in women's sizes) because of the options included: a variety of pockets, high- or mid-rise, and elasticated cuffs or rib knit cuffs. I chose to make the mid-rise version with the elasticated cuffs in a size 2. I didn't make any pockets because my granddaughter doesn't care about those now--although she probably will next year!

I have some pale pink cotton double gauze in my stash. It had come as a supplementary fabric in a Sew Hayley Jane subscription box. I had been hanging on to it, because I only had a little more than a yard. When the idea of these joggers came up, I knew just what to do with it! But for the initial pair, I used a less precious sage green single gauze. 

These were super easy to sew and will be a wearable muslin. Making them helped me determine that I'd want to take off some length and shorten the elastic. 

Then I went on to make McCall's 8416, a Laura Ashley pattern. This is an easy pattern BUT there is a significant mistake in the instructions. At the beginning, it tells you that ALL seam allowances are 1/4" unless otherwise specified. Okay. Except, the instructions for adding the skirt seem to be for a 5/8" seam, but don't say that. So, I contacted McCall's on the Simplicity.com website, leaving a message and email trying to get clarification. Of course, I didn't hear back from them for a day or so, so I went ahead and made the bodice with 1/4" seams in an ancient lavender gingham from my stash, but I attached the skirt with a 5/8" seam. I had it all constructed (except for the hem and buttons) when I heard back from them. Oops. The seam allowance instruction was a mistake! ALL seams are 5/8". Phooey.  

I had tried the dress on my granddaughter, and it could benefit from larger seam allowances, but my daughter and grandson both liked the dress on my granddaughter. Since this dress will only fit her this summer--and definitely NOT next summer--I decided to go ahead and amend this one. 

I had enought fabric left to cut out a new skirt. I used the old skirt to cut out a new bodice. While I was at it, I also cut out a seersucker version in a really cute fabric that had caught my eye at Hobby Lobby. I usually don't shop there, but I had to have this fabric, and as luck would have it, I had won a gift card for the store.

Since both fabrics worked with white thread, I was able to sew both up simultaneously. Easy! Especially since I now knew the right seam allowance! Because of fabric limitations, I added a center back seam to the skirt. Other than that, no changes were made. Oh, I did shorten the skirt and eliminate the tuck.

Unfortunately, I only have a couple photos of the lavender gingham dress. Trust me, it looks adorable on her!

I hope you are having fun at the sewing machine and enjoying the weather wherever you are!

Happy sewing ~ Peggy

I'm Back and with a New Outfit!

Hellooooo? Anybody there?! I've taken quite a break, but I thought I'd come back on to share some of my recent makes.

By the way, I also have a YouTube channel, Bespokeability Sewing, which I have also neglected--but not for as long as I have this poor blog. However, I have realized that I really enjoy writing about my sewing adventures, so I thought, "Why not come back?"

I have been sewing for multiple people; me, my daughter, her husband, my grandson, and my granddaughter. It's lots of fun, and I like sewing for a variety of different ages, genders, and circumstances.

I'll start by sharing a recent summer outfit I've made for myself. I do like to sew outfits! I used the Closet Core Patterns Pietra Pants in the cropped, wide-legged version. I made quite a few of these last summer, and I see no reason to stop! For the top, I used the Zoey Blouse by Atelier Jupe, but with several changes.

I made the top once last summer, basically as designed, except I eliminated the sleeve band and added elastic. Last summer's top was made out of a Nerida Hansen fabric I got in a Think Pink box from Beyond the Pink Door. 

This new top is in a size 44, and is made from a dotted Swiss that I bought at Mill End Fabrics in Reno, Nevada. Maybe it's called a dobby--it's not the traditional dotted Swiss that I'm used to, but I like the little tufts on the fabric. It's nice and lightweight--perfect for our hot weather! However, it's quite sheer. I don't know why I didn't underline it! I guess I wanted to make it as light as possible. This means, though, that I will be wearing a nude-to-me camisole under it--which kind of defeats the purpose!

For the top, I lowered the bust dart by an inch (gravity! 😏), and I cut off the bodice under the bust. I added a peplum, and added more volume and length to the sleeves. Why not?! I like the changes I've made, and being white, this top will be super versatile, although it is quite sheer.

The peplum is just 2 rectangles totaling 1.75 times the circumference of the upper bodice. I finished the hem by hand.

The sleeves are finished with bias tape and elastic.

The top doesn't have any closures. The neckline is finished with a facing made of cotton batiste because I didn't want the texture of the dotted Swiss on the inside. I tested white batiste to see if it would show under the fashion fabric; I decided to change it to a light beige (color: rice) batiste which is closer to my skin tone.

This is a simple top, but I love it. It's exactly what I wanted for this outfit. Next time, though, I'll lengthen the bodice by an inch--and I won't sew such a sheer fabric!

I will re-visit this pattern again, and I have a few more changes I'd like to try.

To go with the top, I made another pair of the aforementioned Pietra Pants.

I made a size 10 in these in the cropped, wide-legged version. This pattern also comes with a tapered leg or with shorts. The only change I've made was to add some length. These pants have a faced, flat front, and an elasticated back. They have super pockets--and I'm not a particular pocket fan--but these don't interfere with the hip line, they're roomy, and I like the interest they add to the front of the pants.

This pattern has great instructions and these pants are not difficult. The only thing I found slightly tricky was the pocket construction. I've learned, though, that if I press the pocket piece at the fold line (right sides together) early on, it'll help me later when I go to install them. 

The front facing is also called a waist stay in the instructions, and it is just that. I really like the security it provides over my tummy, yet it is extremely comfortable.

The fabric for these pants is a Lady McElroy Cruise Washed Linen in Caribbean Blue. It is 100% linen and has been enzyme treated. I've used this fabrication at least twice before and I like it very much. I purchased this from Stonemountain and Daughter in Berkeley, California.

These pants were also hemmed by hand. They call for topstitching, and that would be fine, but I like the clean finish of a hand-sewn hem. 

Last summer, I made these pants in red, sapphire blue, pink, peach--and I'm probably forgetting some! Will I make more? I'm not ruling it out!!

Anyhoo, thank you for coming back to my poor, neglected blog! I hope to be back fairly soon (i.e. way less than 3 years!) with more recent outfits I'm concocting. And who knows, I might also resurrect my YouTube channel!

I hope you are having fun at the sewing machine and enjoying the weather wherever you are!

Happy sewing ~ Peggy